MILAN — Oliviero Toscani, the renowned photographer known for his bold and controversial advertising campaigns for Benetton during the 1980s and 1990s, passed away on Monday at the age of 82.
His family announced his death, sharing that Toscani had been suffering from a rare illness. He was hospitalized in Livorno, Tuscany, when he died.
Toscani had been battling amyloidosis, a disease marked by the accumulation of abnormal protein deposits in the body. In an interview last August, he revealed that he had lost a significant amount of weight, expressing uncertainty about his future, yet showing a disregard for the prospect of living with his condition.
He stated that he wished to be remembered not for any single photograph but for the entirety of his contributions and dedication to his art.
Toscani was the visionary behind many of the shock advertising campaigns that became synonymous with Benetton during his tenure. Some of his most infamous images included a photograph of the Pope sharing a kiss with an imam, which sparked outrage from the Vatican, and other thought-provoking pictures that showcased social issues, such as a priest and nun in an embrace, a newborn still attached to its umbilical cord, and a black mother nursing a white child. These images were part of Toscani’s efforts to promote messages of diversity, acceptance, and environmental awareness.
Speaking to the media during a 1997 shoot focused on harmony between Jews and Arabs in Israel, Toscani remarked that “any picture is a political image,” emphasizing his belief in the significance of the subject matter. He acknowledged the potential backlash that comes with depicting unconventional topics, explaining that many people prefer conformity over confronting challenging truths.
However, Toscani’s partnership with Benetton came to an abrupt end in 2020 after he made controversial comments in relation to a tragic bridge collapse in Genoa. His remarks, which expressed indifference towards the tragedy, prompted a backlash, leading the brand to distance itself. Although he later apologized and expressed regret, the damage was irrevocable, and the relationship that had prospered for nearly two decades was severed.
In a touching tribute on social media, Benetton honored Toscani’s legacy with a simple message: “Farewell, Oliviero. Keep on dreaming,” along with one of his iconic images from 1989.
Born in Milan on February 28, 1942, Toscani was the son of a photojournalist and began his education in photography and graphics at the University of the Arts in Zurich. His early career included contributions to Vogue Italia and other prestigious fashion magazines before he became deeply associated with Benetton.
Toscani’s iconic work for the brand transformed its global identity beyond mere fashion, introducing campaigns that addressed issues such as equality and social justice. In the 1990s, he spearheaded a publication called “Colors,” which was distributed worldwide, and he co-founded Fabrica, a research and communication center aimed at fostering innovative talent in the fashion industry.
His influential projects included a groundbreaking campaign during the AIDS crisis, which featured a striking image of activist David Kirby on his deathbed. Toscani also initiated discussions surrounding the fashion industry’s impact on body image through campaigns addressing anorexia. His “No Anorexia” campaign for an Italian brand sparked dialogue about the connections between fashion and eating disorders, making headlines around the world.
In addition to his work in fashion, Toscani engaged in numerous initiatives tackling various pressing social issues, including road safety, gender-based violence, and the plight of stray animals. His extensive and impactful career left a lasting mark on the worlds of photography, fashion, and social advocacy.
