AMORGOS, Greece — For over half a century, Spyridon Denaxas has devoted his life to prayer, work, and welcoming visitors at a historic island monastery carved into a seaside cliff, appearing much the same as when it was founded over a thousand years ago. Greece has witnessed a swift shift towards secularism alongside other parts of Europe, and nearby Aegean islands, such as the famed Santorini, are increasingly driven by tourism that prioritizes beaches over churches.
Despite this trend, a few Orthodox Christian monks remain crucial figures in local communities. Among them is Father Spyridon, lovingly referred to by island residents, who felt an intense pull to return to Amorgos following a medical emergency during a time of continuous earthquakes. “My desire was to be with my community, to feel their emotions, because I hold responsibility for their care. God placed me here for this purpose,” he expressed from the Panagia Hozoviotissa monastery, noting the sanctuary’s untouched state during recent tremors.
During his brief absences, particularly the extended one last year for medical procedures on the mainland, the entire island, including non-believers, buzzed with anticipation for his return. “He remains an integral part of our island,” commented mina Mavrou as Spyridon was poised to return via a long ferry journey from Athens. Settling back into his pristine white-painted monastery perched between the sky and sea, the monk felt complete joy.
“I am spiritually elated, reuniting with the village people who missed and sought after me,” he remarked. “The monastic life fulfills me, and coming back to my natural setting brings me happiness.” The monastery’s origins trace back to when Byzantine monks fleeing persecution in the 9th century journeyed with a revered Virgin Mary icon to this mountainous island. While constructing shelter in a cave, they interpreted a revealed chisel hanging further up the cliff as a divine sign, prompting them to build the monastery towering over the sea.
Today, both the icon and chisel continue to be significant components in the chapel anchoring the complex. Spyridon, originally from Amorgos, joined the monastery immediately after high school in 1971 at the age of 18, becoming one of its two monks, alongside a 35-year-old assistant, Constantin Papakonstantinou, who aspires to join their ranks. Meanwhile, Constantin shares the monastery’s history with visitors, aided by his multilingual skills honed during a previous fashion career.
At the chapel’s entrance, Spyridon cheerfully welcomes pilgrims, many of whom catch their breath after ascending the steep 300 meters of steps from a parking lot, squeezing through its narrow entrance, and venturing up a staircase to reach the dimly lit chapel. Here, they respect the icon before stepping into the brightness of the terrace. The mesmerizing views of the sea below draw countless tourists, even from nearby bustling tourist spots in the Cyclades islands.
Whether pursuing spiritual growth or perfect Instagram shots, Spyridon is eager to receive all visitors, offering refreshments like cold water, sweets, and homemade honey-flavored raki. “The Virgin Mary offers healing to all souls,” he declared. “This monastery welcomes the entire world, granting grace to everyone who visits.” The monastery not only attracts tourists but serves as a vital hub for locals seeking both spiritual and material support from the monks.
“Historically, people sought monks in wildernesses for guidance, forming spiritual bonds,” explained Ed Siecienski, a religion professor. “Monks are seen as paragons of Christian virtues.” Islanders frequently called Spyridon during his mainland medical procedures, inquiring about his health and receiving his blessings. Unlike Orthodox parish priests, who often marry, monks lead celibate lives, a path Spyridon deliberated on as a teenager but has never regretted, considering the islanders his family.
Celebrating namesake saints, a greater event in Greek tradition than birthdays, Spyridon congratulates people on their “name day,” making numerous calls before dawn to reach those in distant locales like Australia. He also enjoys visiting remote chapels and villages across Amorgos with his trusty stick by his side. After a visit to a local coffee shop, its owner professed a deep admiration for Spyridon, expressing the desire for his photograph alongside family pictures.
Spyridon acknowledges the importance of routine, prayer, and work in monastic life. “Bustling activity leaves no room for dullness or melancholy,” he said. Rising at 3 a.m. for early prayer and concluding his day after 9 p.m. is typical. Michalis Giannakos, recalling childhood visits to the monastery, reminisced about Spyridon diligently attending to chores and welcoming pilgrims. “He has always ensured visitors felt cared for,” noted Giannakos during a return visit to Amorgos.
While urban Greeks might show skepticism toward the church, small communities like Amorgos see value in spiritual leadership that transcends faith alone. Aside from religious duties, clergy also mediate conflicts and offer guidance. The monastery even offered land to establish a local school, reinforcing its role during November feast days.
“Spyridon’s contributions are immense,” acknowledged Cristina Astrecha, a religious educator in Amorgos. “His actions demonstrate true spirituality,” embodying a philosophy that embraces both people and nature. Spyridon emphasized humanity’s entrusted stewardship over nature, underscoring the interdependence of faith and ecological respect. His fulfillment stems from tending to his sanctuary while offering support to all in need.