BEELITZ, Germany — The eagerly awaited asparagus season heralds the arrival of spring in Germany, where the beloved white asparagus claims its place as the most cherished vegetable. Germans can engage in lengthy discussions over the ideal accompaniments for white asparagus, whether it should be paired with melted butter, rich Hollandaise sauce, smoked ham, or crispy schnitzel. The choice of side dish, be it potatoes boiled whole, sliced and fried with bacon and onion, is equally debated. Even the proper method of consumption can be a topic of discussion; although traditional etiquette allows for eating with fingers, provided they are cleaned in a warm water bowl afterward.
There’s one consensus among Germans: green asparagus pales in comparison to its white counterpart, which remains the nation’s preferred choice. According to Sven Sperling, a patron at the Jakobs-Hof asparagus restaurant near Berlin, white asparagus possesses a distinctive, delicate taste that sets it apart from green asparagus, making it incomparable.
Dubbed “white gold,” white asparagus is a prized crop in Germany. Beelitz, a renowned asparagus-growing region located 50 kilometers southwest of Berlin, thrives economically on this “white gold,” which fetches up to 20 euros per kilo at the season’s start. Despite prices dropping to 10 euros per kilo by season’s end in June, the luxury status of “Spargel” endures throughout its availability.
For Germans, beyond being just a source of nourishment, white asparagus represents a cultural experience, explained Jürgen Jakobs, proprietor of the Jakobs-Hof restaurant and grower of this cherished vegetable. In his words, “Eating asparagus is a celebration,” as he surveyed his expansive fields tended to by Romanian workers harvesting the shoots manually. Asparagus is often served during significant occasions such as Easter, Mother’s Day, and Whitsun, with families and friends coming together to partake in this seasonal feast.
Historically, the European love affair with white asparagus can be traced back to the ancient Romans, who regarded it as an aphrodisiac and introduced it to Central Europe. Initially a luxury reserved for the nobility in the Middle Ages, it became more widely available in the late 19th century when farmers began cultivating it in fields. Despite its availability, white asparagus continues to carry an air of sophistication.
Thriving in sandy soils, which impart its unique sweet, nutty flavor, white asparagus is cultivated underground beneath plastic sheets to prevent exposure to sunlight, preserving its prized white hue. Once sunlight touches it, the shoots transform to violet and then green, altering the taste profile to a heartier, more bitter flavor.
Renowned as the world’s foremost consumers of white asparagus, Germans rate the vegetable as a staple. Each individual consumes about three pounds annually, contributing to a harvest of over 105,000 metric tons last year without any export. While Germany imports white asparagus from countries such as Spain and Italy to meet demand, Jakob claims these imports lack the refined taste of locally grown varieties.
Preparation involves steaming the stalks in sugared and salted water. Unlike green asparagus, the white variety requires peeling. The preparation serves as a social ritual where traditionally, women would gather to peel kilos of asparagus, fostering camaraderie and conversation.
Reflecting on tradition, Sperling remarks that the authentic experience of fresh, farm-bought asparagus, peeled and prepared at home, conjures nostalgic childhood memories. “Nothing compares to the real, old-school experience,” he shared, savoring his dish of freshly harvested asparagus from Jakobs’ fields, a true embodiment of culinary delight.