In the Syrian town of Daraya, Mariam Aabour experienced mixed emotions upon learning of the removal of Syrian leader Bashar Assad. The joy of the news was tempered by the sorrow of leaving behind her son and stepson in Lebanon as she prepared to return to her homeland. Though glad to be coming back, Aabour faced the heartache of not having seen her father, who passed away in Syria. Adding to this grief, their home was destroyed with no funds to reconstruct it. This emotional complexity has marked her first Ramadan back in Syria.
Aabour is among numerous Syrians returning after Assad’s fall in December, following a hasty rebel campaign. Many are celebrating new freedoms and trying to recapture aspects of their former lives during their first Ramadan back. However, they also confront significant challenges, such as adapting to a nation deeply scarred by years of civil war and navigating its ongoing transition. The holy month of Ramadan, usually a time of fasting and festivity, is shadowed by the absence of loved ones who were lost or remain missing.
The UNHCR reports that over 370,000 Syrians, like Aabour, have returned since Assad’s removal. During Ramadan, Aabour takes joy in hearing the mosque’s call to prayer, something missing in Lebanon where she depended on a phone for the time of breaking fast. The loss of family members, such as her son who died before they fled Syria, weighs heavily on these moments of traditional celebration. Her son, who cherished helping her prepare iftar, is particularly missed during these mealtime gatherings.
Her husband, Faraj al-Mashash, shares the difficulties of returning, now facing debt and the responsibility of caring for his ill father. Repairs to his father’s home in Daraya, although damaged and looted, have strained their financial resources. Many in Daraya are in similar positions; the town, once known for its agriculture and crafts, became a pivotal site of anti-Assad protests which escalated into the ongoing civil conflict, marking its 14th year this Ramadan.
Years of military sieges and bombardments have devastated Daraya, leaving parts of the town in ruins. Yet, for locals like al-Mashash, returning brings a sense of homecoming, despite the widespread destruction. For him, the spirit of Daraya cannot be erased by the physical damages.
Others returning have found their homes untenable or completely obliterated, forcing them to start anew. Some have found temporary lodging in former housing projects of Assad-era officials, now repurposed to accommodate returning families. Most of these returnees, according to the UNHCR, have come back from nearby countries like Lebanon, Jordan, and Turkey.
The agency highlights significant security concerns regarding unexploded ordnance, and while offering support through mine awareness and legal assistance, there is a call for increased funding to facilitate the safe rebuilding of lives. Economic impediments remain a central issue deterring many from returning, pointing to a need for international aid to bolster the country’s recovery.
Figures like Filippo Grandi of the UN emphasize the importance of improving living conditions to make the return of displaced Syrians sustainable. For many, like Umaya Moussa, the return is a bittersweet journey. Her memories are filled with the fear and struggle of fleeing while pregnant and managing survival in refugee conditions in Lebanon. Her experiences reflect a longing for the familial togetherness that Ramadan once promised, now fractured by the years of conflict.
Returning means facing the loss of family members such as Moussa’s father, who passed away during her time abroad, and the challenge of reconnecting within a changed landscape. Similarly, Saeed Kamel, who coped with loss while anticipating Assad’s fall, returns to a country that now feels foreign without his loved ones. Despite missing family and damaged homes, the hope of future generations living without oppression sustains him.
As Syrians like Kamel reminisce about past Ramadan traditions and gatherings, the stark reality of current conditions underscores the changed social fabric. Nonetheless, the sense of freedom following Assad’s removal brings a renewed but cautious optimism for future celebrations.