NHA TRANG, Vietnam — Beneath the tranquil waves off the coast of Nha Trang in central Vietnam, a hidden crisis is unfolding. The coral reefs, vital for marine ecosystems, are facing severe decline, and the ocean is losing its once-abundant fish populations.
This bleak scenario has led Binh Van, a seasoned fisherman with over 20 years of experience, to shift from fishing to offering boat charters for tourists eager to fish in the South China Sea. However, they mainly catch squid, which seem to thrive in the warmer waters brought on by climate change. Although the tourists appear content, enchanted by Nha Trang’s dazzling beach resorts, Van remains troubled.
There was a time when Binh would return with a hefty catch of 70 kilograms (154 pounds) of fish, including tuna and grouper, in a single night. Squid were never his primary catch, and as Van solemnly admits, his days of prosperous fishing trips are over. “Now I usually go home empty-handed,” he confesses.
Southeast Asia is home to more than a third of the world’s coral reefs, forming part of the biologically rich ‘Coral Triangle’. This zone stretches across nations from the Philippines to Indonesia and the Solomon Islands. Yet, these crucial reefs face potential devastation. Only 1% of Vietnam’s coral reefs remain healthy, a fact attributed to their isolated locations, as per the World Resources Institute.
The global coral crisis is exacerbated by rising sea temperatures and increased acidity, which weaken coral structures and lead to bleaching. Bleaching occurs when corals expel the algae vital for their survival, leaving them stark white and vulnerable. Clint Oakley from Victoria University in New Zealand highlights the frequency of these bleaching events due to climate change, stressing that “It’s a compounding problem. It takes more than a year for them to fully recover.”
Nha Trang’s coral reefs have also suffered due to local developments. The economic boom in Vietnam has led to coastal expansion, with sediment from construction harming the corals. Additionally, runoff from agriculture and booming aquaculture fuels algal blooms, blocking sunlight and suffocating the corals. Overfishing has further disrupted the balance of reef ecosystems. In 2019, an infestation of crown-of-thorns starfish, spurred by these imbalances, decimated nearly 90% of the surviving reefs, as reported by marine ecologist Konstantin S. Tkachenko from Samara University in Russia.
The rapid deterioration of reefs impacts not only fisheries—destroying habitats and food sources for marine species—but also threatens Vietnam’s tourism industry. Tourists, particularly divers, are drawn to Vietnam’s extensive coastline. However, the underwater scenery is increasingly marred by waste, ranging from glass bottles and nylon fishing lines to ubiquitous plastic debris. Many fish species, critical to maintaining reef health, like the Picasso triggerfish and beaked Indian parrotfish, have vanished, notes Michael Blum of Rainbow Divers.
“When you don’t have the cleaners, the (reefs) suffocate,” Blum explains. Since October, he and others have organized weekly dives to collect waste, amassing over 100 kilograms (220 pounds) of rubbish.
Niecey Alexander, a tourist who began diving in December, was struck by the ocean’s vastness and the visible impact of tourism-related waste during her underwater excursions. “People are not really thinking about waste when they’re going into these adventures,” she observes.
Maintaining the health of these ecosystems while promoting tourism requires careful management, argues Emma Camp, a coral specialist from the University of Technology Sydney. She indicates that tourism can support marine conservation when effectively managed, whereas irresponsible practices—such as anchors damaging reefs—can be detrimental. “They can be very positive…allowing people to fall in love with a reef by allowing them to experience it firsthand,” she says.
Vietnam aims to maintain its natural allure to attract tourists, seeking to enhance post-pandemic tourism revenue to $42 billion. By 2025, the country hopes to welcome 23 million international visitors and more than 120 million domestic travelers. For comparison, Thailand, the region’s top destination, targets 40 million international tourists and 200 million domestic visits by 2025.
Cities like Nha Trang blend picturesque beaches and historic fishing villages with rapid development, including the construction of resorts, restaurants, and nightlife venues. Despite these pressures, Vietnam declares a commitment to sustainable tourism. In 2001, it designated 160 square kilometers (61 square miles) for its first marine protected area. Yet challenges persist, from the use of explosives and poisons in fishing to excessive tourism and coastal development, as reported by Vietnamese state media.
In 2022, Nha Trang authorities temporarily suspended tourism to aid reef recovery, removing predatory starfish and clearing the seabed. The government also initiated coral nurseries to promote ecological restoration.
Despite these efforts, Blum reports that fishing within protected zones continues. “We go out in the morning, we are chasing the fishing boats away. We leave in the afternoon, and the fishing boats are coming back in,” he notes.
Tkachenko suggests Vietnam could implement further measures to safeguard its reefs, such as establishing additional enforcement-backed marine parks, requiring tourism operators to restore coastal vegetation, enhancing fisheries regulations, and rehabilitating degraded reefs by reintroducing key species.
The pressure from numerous fishing vessels along Nha Trang’s coast emphasizes the challenges faced. Tkachenko poses a critical question, “What do you think is the chance to survive for any tiny fish or sea bottom inhabitant under such tremendous fishing pressure daily?” he asks, underscoring the urgent need for effective conservation strategies.
