MILAN — Gucci is heading in a new direction that is distinctly green. This evolution was marked on the opening day of Milan Fashion Week, as the fashion house draped its showroom in rich, green carpeting and pleated drapery. This color transition signifies the end of the Sabato De Sarno era, where red was the dominant color. By shifting from red to green, Gucci emphasizes a fresh start while acknowledging both colors are key to the emblematic Gucci stripe.
Creative teams faced the challenge of assembling a collection quickly following De Sarno’s abrupt departure after just two years. Remarkably, the team had just two and a half weeks to complete the collection. This situation is reminiscent of the 2015 runway launch under Alessandro Michele, which involved a five-day preparation. Under Michele, distinctive elements like eclectic looks and pussy bows hinted at the brand’s evolving identity.
This latest collection seemed to draw inspiration from Gucci’s history. Designs featuring boxy mini-dress silhouettes evoked the 1960s, complete with silk scarves wrapped around the head, occasionally paired with baseball caps. Slip dresses trimmed with lace recalled the 1990s, while romantically trailing pussy-bow blouses nodded to the Michele era. Traditional straight skirts with deep slits and slim trousers with split hemlines appeared in the showcase, reminiscent of more recent collections.
The collection aimed for a luscious aesthetic, using elements like faux fur, satin, and mother of pearl leather to create an ultra-luxurious feel. The front row boasted prominent figures such as Daisy Edgar Jones, Jessica Chastain, Parker Posey, and Dev Patel, underscoring the event’s significance.
This season, trends spotlighted within the collection included boxy suit jackets with flat pockets evoking the 1960s for women, and slightly oversized double-blazer ensembles for men. Other notable features were overcoats with shortened sleeves, bondage-style leather gloves, faux fur coats, and long flowing bows that transitioned into scarves.
