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PALMYRA, Syria — Experts are revisiting the heritage sites in Syria, which have suffered immense damage due to years of conflict, aiming to establish a foundation for restoration and rejuvenate tourism. This revival is deemed crucial for bolstering the country’s battered economy, which has been adversely affected by nearly 14 years of warfare.
Previously bustling landmarks like the ancient city of Palmyra and the medieval Crusader castle Crac des Chevaliers bear the scars of ongoing strife. Despite the devastation, there has been a resurgence of local tourists, and conservationists are optimistic that the historical and cultural importance of these sites will eventually entice international visitors back to the area.
Palmyra, recognized as one of Syria’s six UNESCO World Heritage sites, was historically a crucial stop along the Silk Road, linking the Roman and Parthian empires to Asia. Nestled within the Syrian desert, the site is famed for its ruins that date back two millennia. Unfortunately, the landscape is now littered with broken columns and ruined temples.
Before the civil war erupted in 2011, Palmyra attracted around 150,000 tourists per month, making it Syria’s top tourist destination, according to Ayman Nabu, a researcher and specialist in historical sites. He referred to Palmyra as the “Bride of the Desert,” highlighting how it had once transformed the arid region into a hub for global tourism.
Historically, Palmyra was the capital of a Roman client state that briefly rebelled and established its own kingdom in the third century under Queen Zenobia.
However, more contemporary times have cast a shadow over the area. It housed Tadmur prison, notorious for the torture of thousands of dissidents opposing the Assad regime. In a tragic twist, the Islamic State group demolished the prison after seizing control of the town.
IS militants also obliterated significant temples like those dedicated to Bel and Baalshamin, viewing them as symbols of idolatry. The group even executed an elderly antiquities scholar who had committed his life to protecting these ancient structures.
From 2015 to 2017, control of Palmyra oscillated between IS and the Syrian army until Assad’s forces, supported by Russian and Iranian militias, regained it. Military bases have since been established nearby, but the area remains largely damaged and deserted. Additionally, Fakhr al-Din al-Ma’ani Castle, a 16th-century fortress overlooking the city, has been converted into a military installation by Russian troops.
Nabu visited Palmyra shortly after the fall of the former government back in 2017. He noted extensive excavations within tombs, highlighting considerable destruction caused by both the Islamic State and Assad’s forces. He remarked on the deplorable state of the museum, which is missing numerous artifacts and documents.
He also reported illegal activities such as excavation and theft of funerary sculptures while IS controlled the site in 2015. Although some stolen pieces were recovered, 22 artifacts are still missing, likely sold in underground markets or held in private collections.
Inside the underground tombs of Palmyra, inscriptions of Islamic verses cover the walls, with plaster covering elaborate murals that reflect the city’s deep-rooted connections to the Greco-Roman era.
“Preservation efforts are essential since Syria boasts invaluable ruins,” Nabu stated. He emphasized that the interim administration, formed by the Islamist former insurgent group Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, plans to develop a strategic restoration plan post-transition phase.
Since 2015, UNESCO has remotely supported the safeguarding of Syrian cultural heritage through satellite analysis and documentation, but no on-ground work has been initiated. They indicated potential technical assistance could occur if security conditions allow. In 2019, international experts reconvened to propose that detailed studies were necessary ahead of major restoration projects.
Crac des Chevaliers, another focal point beyond Palmyra, is a medieval castle atop a hill near Al-Husn. Originally built by the Romans and later expanded by Crusaders, it suffered heavy bombardment during the civil war. On a recent occasion, armed fighters mingled with local visitors who took selfies amidst the ruins.
Hazem Hanna, the architect and director of the antiquities department at Crac des Chevaliers, pointed out the rubble of columns and staircases lost to airstrikes. He noted the 2014 government airstrikes led to the destruction of much of the castle’s central courtyard and intricately designed columns.
Hanna remains hopeful for a tourism revival once conditions improve, relying on the historical allure of Syria’s sites. Sections of Crac des Chevaliers have been renovated after both airstrikes and the devastating earthquake that struck both Turkey and Syria in early 2023, yet significant portions remain in ruins.
Both Nabu and Hanna agree that the restoration process will be lengthy, necessitating trained technical teams to assess the conditions of the sites. In Northwest Syria, over 700 abandoned Byzantine settlements, known as the Dead Cities, span rocky hills and plains. The durable limestone remains feature remnants of ancient homes, churches, and streets adorned with olive trees steeped in history.
These ancient settlements, dating back to the first century, once flourished through trade and agriculture. Today, many now serve as shelter for displaced individuals, with ruins used for makeshift homes that show signs of fire damage and neglect. Looters have ravaged the area, seeking artifacts and leaving obvious scars on the landscape, while local visitors deface ancient walls with names and messages.
One local, Moustafa Al-Kaddour, who returned after eight years, toured the ruins with family members and reflected on his childhood memories. “We used to skip school to come here,” he recalled. His emotional response to returning home manifested in the statement, “My feelings are indescribable.” He also noted that military activity in the area resulted in substantial damage to the ruins and limited access during the conflict.
The Dead Cities were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2011 and referred to as an open-air museum, with the province of Idlib hosting a substantial portion of Syria’s heritage sites. Despite political and military turmoil, the threat to preservation remains. Nabu highlighted that tens of thousands of looted artifacts are still unaccounted for, and ongoing unauthorized construction nearby exacerbates the precarious situation for these sites.
Efforts to document the looting continue, with authorities compiling case files for potential recovery of these artifacts, working in tandem with the Directorate of Antiquities and Museums.
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