PALMYRA, Syria — Specialists are re-engaging with Syria’s historically significant sites that have been severely affected by years of civil conflict, with aspirations for restoration and a revival of tourism. This initiative aims to offer a much-needed uplift to the country’s battered economy after nearly 14 years of warfare.
The once-popular destinations such as the ancient city of Palmyra and the medieval Crusader stronghold known as Crac des Chevaliers bear the marks of prolonged conflict. Nonetheless, local visitors are beginning to return, instilling hope among conservationists that the rich historical and cultural relevance of these sites will eventually attract international tourists once more.
Palmyra, a vital part of Syria’s heritage as one of its six UNESCO World Heritage sites, was an important center along the ancient Silk Road, connecting the Roman and Parthian empires to the Asian regions. A prominent feature of the Syrian desert, it boasts Roman ruins that are over 2,000 years old, though the site is now filled with broken columns and damaged temples.
Before the tumultuous uprising in 2011 that led to a brutal civil war, Palmyra was among Syria’s foremost tourist destinations, drawing in around 150,000 visitors each month, according to Ayman Nabu, a researcher specializing in the ancient ruins. He described Palmyra as the “Bride of the Desert,” reflecting on how it used to attract worldwide tourists. In its history, Palmyra had the distinction of serving as the capital for a Roman client state that briefly gained independence under Queen Zenobia in the third century.
However, in more contemporary times, the region has been marked by tragedy, as it housed the notorious Tadmur prison, where numerous individuals opposed to the Assad regime faced torture. The Islamic State group later devastated the prison after taking control of the area. Additionally, they demolished significant temples such as the ones dedicated to Bel and Baalshamin, seeing them as symbols of idolatry, and executed an elderly antiquities expert dedicated to preserving the sites.
From 2015 to 2017, the control over Palmyra switched back and forth between IS militants and Syrian military forces before it was eventually reclaimed by Assad’s army, supported by allied militia. Military establishments sprang up surrounding the area, which has since remained heavily damaged and largely deserted. A 16th-century fortress called the Fakhr al-Din al-Ma’ani Castle was utilized by Russian troops as a barracks.
Nabu visited Palmyra shortly after regaining governmental control, stating there was extensive excavation of the tombs that had been carried out. He noted the severe destruction inflicted by both IS and Syrian government forces. The local museum was left in a catastrophic state, with numerous artifacts and documents unaccounted for.
During his examination of other historical structures, like the Tetrapylon and various remnants along the colonnaded street, Nabu discovered numerous illegal drillings revealing sculptures that were victim to theft and smuggling while the area was under IS domination. He reported that while seven stolen sculptures were recovered, 22 others were lost and likely ended up in underground markets or private collections.
Palmyra’s underground tombs also carry traces of the conflict, with Islamic texts written on the walls and covers obscuring vivid wall paintings depicting mythological themes that illustrate its connections to the Greco-Roman world. Nabu underscored the importance of preservation, urging the interim administration led by Hayat Tahrir al-Sham to develop a strategic restoration plan post-transition.
Matthieu Lamarre from UNESCO highlighted that since 2015, the agency has provided remote support for the safeguarding of the cultural heritage in Syria. They have conducted analysis using satellite imagery and provided reports and recommendations for local experts, although no on-site work has been carried out yet. Discussions for future technical assistance could be possible if security improves.
Beyond Palmyra, numerous historical sites are also bearing the marks of war. Crac des Chevaliers, a medieval castle built initially by Romans and later modified by the Crusaders, has suffered extensive damage due to bombardments during the civil war. On a recent day, military personnel mingled with local tourists exploring the ruins.
Architect Hazem Hanna, who leads the antiquities department at Crac des Chevaliers, showed the effects of airstrikes, which obliterated many structures, including the entrance staircase and central courtyard rich in ornate columns. He expressed optimism that the cultural significance of Syria’s historical sites will foster a tourism revival once safe for visitors to return. Some portions of Crac des Chevaliers have been updated following bombings and the devastating earthquake in 2023.
Meanwhile, in Northwest Syria, over 700 abandoned Byzantine settlements termed the Dead Cities stretch over rugged terrains. These remnants of past civilizations include stone houses, basilicas, and colonnaded streets. Sadly, numerous structures are in deteriorating conditions, plagued by looting and improper maintenance. Some have been repurposed as makeshift shelters for displaced individuals, while looters continue to ravage the sites in search of artifacts.
Local resident Moustafa Al-Kaddour returned to his childhood sites after eight years, sharing emotional memories with family members as he revisited the ruins. He noted how much the area has changed since his school days. “My experiences are beyond words,” he expressed upon reconnecting with family after years apart.
The Dead Cities, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage asset in 2011, represent a significant section of Syria’s archaeological treasures, with Idlib province alone holding over 1,000 heritage sites. Nabu warned that looting and unauthorized construction posed a serious threat to preservation efforts, marking thousands of artifacts as lost and undocumented. The documentation project aims to cooperate with antiquity authorities to locate and recover lost pieces, but challenges persist.
