PARIS — On Wednesday, the Palais de Tokyo in Paris was transformed into a tranquil haven as Elie Saab presented his latest haute couture collection. The gentle sounds of nature, including flowing water and the song of birds, created a peaceful, almost dreamlike atmosphere. The peaceful mood was occasionally interrupted by cheers and the noise of cameras as Eva Longoria made an entrance, adding a hint of celebrity glamour to the occasion.
While the setting suggested a quaint pastoral scene, the collection itself was anything but ordinary. Saab’s new work reflected a high-drama aesthetic that combined his hallmark lavishness with an innovative architectural flair. This season, the renowned Lebanese designer, known for dressing stars on the red carpet, introduced designs that balanced intricate embroidery with a bold, almost protective structure. Undulating forms gracefully wrapped around the shoulders and hips, paying homage to the elegance of the Art Deco era while infusing a modern twist. Striking geometric accents adorned with sparkling details enhanced the sculptural elements, leading to silhouettes that exuded authority, contrasting with Saab’s traditionally soft and flowing designs.
Models showcased a striking array of gowns on three parallel catwalks, elegantly nestled within classical white arches. The garments sparkled with jewels and featured embroidered feathers that evoked the appearance of flourishing plant life. This visual presentation was nothing short of a cinematic experience, reminiscent of the opulence of the 1920s — a modern take on the lavishness associated with Gatsby, filtered through Saab’s imaginative vision. Yet, in a time marked by uncertainty, the extravagant designs seemed to carry a different significance, serving as a reminder that fashion often provides a shimmering escape from everyday life.
Saab’s signature style, characterized by spectacular embellishments, flattering silhouettes, and red carpet glamour, remained prevalent throughout the collection. However, an enhanced sense of structure and a newfound composure lent an edgy quality to the work. While the designer has consistently celebrated femininity and splendor, this collection hinted at a powerful evolution: women adorned in dreams, yet prepared to face whatever the future may hold.
