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In a landmark moment for Lanvin, the world’s oldest continuously operating couture house, artistic director Peter Copping made his much-anticipated debut during Paris Fashion Week. Established in 1889, Lanvin is a brand with a rich history, and Copping sought to rejuvenate its relevance and significance through a collection that elegantly fused the essence of Jeanne Lanvin’s vision from the 1920s and 30s with modern sensibilities.
Copping’s creations paid tribute to the vast creativity of Jeanne Lanvin, which spanned couture as well as perfumes and interior design. His collection resurrected the signature styles of the house, such as capes, draped ribbon dresses, and the prominent robe de style. Noteworthy pieces included a striking gold metallic lurex dress, a skirt adorned with petals, flowing antique-style lace aprons, and sumptuous gilded trousers. Each item harmoniously balanced historical homage and present-day appeal.
Demonstrating a profound respect for the brand’s heritage, Copping’s approach sparked questions about the potential pitfalls of leaning too heavily on past influences. However, the richness of the collection showcased his dedication to maintaining the maison’s foundational identity.
A significant influence in the show was the incorporation of Art Deco aesthetics, with graphic patterns and motifs inspired by Jeanne Lanvin’s own residence. One of the standout pieces included a black velvet cape embellished with silver studs, elegantly styled with a sheer blouse and tailored trousers. Eveningwear was highlighted, featuring dramatic designs like spiral-draped ribbon dresses and pieces embellished with mirrored embroidery, reflecting Copping’s mastery of couture techniques.
The diversity of the collection, which included 62 different looks encompassing eveningwear, daywear, and menswear, offered something for everyone. Nonetheless, the wide-ranging presentation sometimes came across as more of a varied exploration rather than a singular cohesive theme. Regardless, the remarkable creativity and meticulous technical execution evident in each piece underscored Copping’s passion for the art of fashion.
In the menswear segment, a new avenue for Copping, there were intriguing highlights, including a long-sleeve T-shirt featuring silver mirror embroidery. While this menswear portion felt somewhat experimental, it suggested exciting opportunities for future collections as Copping continues to refine his aesthetic in this domain.
The fall collection was not merely a debut; it represented a clear declaration of intention. The enthusiastic applause at the conclusion of the show indicated the audience’s admiration for Copping’s meticulous craftsmanship and his profound respect for the legacy of Jeanne Lanvin. With this promising start, the future looks bright for Lanvin.
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