PARIS — On Thursday, Rick Owens infused Paris Fashion Week with a striking and dystopian atmosphere, transforming the Palais de Tokyo into a bold industrial backdrop.
Strobe lights pierced the darkness like futuristic prison bars, while models with shaved heads and haunting contact lenses paraded down the runway in massive boots and jackets featuring large, upturned collars. This created an aesthetic that was both alien and surreal, embodying an unsettling but commanding presence.
The collection was deeply influenced by Owens’ longstanding relationship with the industrial town of Concordia in northern Italy, a place where years of solitary work immensely shaped his creative outlook.
“Living in seclusion seems essential to focus on achieving something strange and extraordinary,” said Owens, highlighting the thought process behind his latest designs.
Among the featured pieces were cropped tops with exaggerated, rounded shoulders that emphasized the body’s fragility, alongside flowing, hooded coats and tasseled flared trousers that exuded gothic drama.
The designs felt reminiscent of both ancient rituals and modern-day rebellion.
The choice of materials was crucial in lending the collection its raw, industrial vibe.
Chain-link skirts and boots crafted from handwoven leather, along with bleached alligator jackets and bronze-treated denim featuring cracked textures, contributed unique and bold elements. Sustainability was also a focus, as eco-certified wool thermals and water-saving denim treatments were integrated, providing an environmentally responsible aspect to the collection.
David Bowie’s “Heroes,” performed in French, German, and English, served as a haunting soundtrack, infusing the show with emotional depth and reflection.
While Owens is known for his signature styles—such as towering boots and exaggerated silhouettes—his dedication to challenging conventional beauty norms continues to make his work compelling and thought-provoking.