PARIS — The atmosphere at Paris Fashion Week buzzed with excitement as Paul Smith presented his fall menswear collection.
The event attracted an array of spectators, including K-Pop sensation Hongjoong from ATEEZ, and served as a homage to photography, a longstanding inspiration for the renowned British designer.
Central to the collection was the “Field Flower” print, a vivid tribute to the works of Sir Paul’s father, Harold. This floral pattern, inspired by Harold’s photography, adorned shirts, ties, and rich jacquard knitwear, weaving a personal narrative into the very threads of the garments.
The impact of legendary photographers such as David Bailey and Terence Donovan was unmistakable, leaving a lasting influence on the collection’s aesthetic. Tailoring reflected a subtly rebellious spirit, mirroring the unique styles of these photographers, while a deep, inky color palette, influenced by Saul Leiter’s striking color photography, enveloped the collection in a sophisticated moodiness.
Traditional elements were cleverly reinterpreted. Typically stiff herringbone wool was softened through a careful laundering technique, resulting in a comforting, lived-in quality. The bold patterns of houndstooth and Prince of Wales checks were accentuated in larger scales, embellishing not only garments but also footwear and accessories.
A hint of inventive artistry was introduced through tailored jackets that featured contrasting fabrics, producing subtle yet eye-catching patchwork designs.
The collaboration with Barbour brought a rustic flair to the show. Fresh iterations of Barbour jackets were presented, covered in unexpected hues of waxed cotton and playfully enhanced with Friesian cow motifs, infusing a sense of whimsy into the rugged sophistication.
Sir Paul Smith, an adept narrator, engaged the audience throughout Wednesday’s showcase, offering valuable insights that breathed life into the creative designs.