MILAN — During Milan Fashion Week, the Italian fashion label Simon Cracker made a bold statement against the luxury fashion industry with the introduction of an upcycled collection. This collection serves as a nostalgic homage to what the designers perceive as a lost era of craftsmanship and innovation in fashion.
The co-ed collection was creatively constructed using salvaged garments, deadstock materials, and accessories, including a playful nod to Hermes’ coveted Birken bag. The design team cleverly illustrated the iconic hardware on leather bags and screen-printed representations of the Birken on sweaters. Co-creative directors Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi humorously acknowledged Walmart’s recent release of what many considered a Birken-inspired replica while they were in the midst of developing their collection.
Biraghi expressed concern over the public’s waning interest in fashion, stating, “People have lost interest in fashion. They have been taken for a ride for 20 years. With over 50 wars globally and climate change, we are all facing economic hardship. The connection between price and value has deteriorated, and at some point, we can’t continue like this.”
The collection highlighted playful interpretations of the classic Milanese signora, referred to in dialect as “sciura,” featuring whimsical tweed separates, a foulard, and even a miniature dog. Each piece was thoughtfully constructed from items sourced through dry cleaners and other avenues, with models adopting nonchalant poses and exaggerated runway movements. The brand also expanded its partnership with Doc Martens, showcasing shoes embellished with trompe l’oeil ballet flats. Additionally, skirts, collars, and accents were crafted from shiny tinsel packaging, with ribbons adorning the footwear.
The show culminated with a garment entirely covered in luxury tags from Biraghi’s personal collection accumulated over time. He remarked, “We are poking fun at wealth,” highlighting their critical perspective on extravagance.
Simon Cracker’s runway critique arrives during a challenging moment for the luxury sector, which many analysts argue is in desperate need of reform. A report from McKinsey and The Business of Fashion revealed that leading brands are experiencing a notable decline this year after four years of exceptional growth spanning from 2019 to 2023, during which the sector enjoyed an annual growth rate of 5% despite the pandemic.
The report noted that a significant portion—80%—of this growth was driven by pricing strategies rather than true innovation. Similarly, Bain forecasts a 2% decline for 2025, marking the first contraction since the Great Recession, excluding the pandemic year, and attributing this prediction to a creative crisis alongside widespread global instability.
For Botte and Biraghi, these conclusions were not surprising. Biraghi emphasized the importance of creativity in fashion, stating, “If an item isn’t intriguing or lacks a narrative, if it’s not innovative, who cares? We’re already burdened with too many clothes; we don’t need more.”
Among the audience was Italian singer Chiara Galiazzo, who attended the show donning a unique pinstripe and plaid jacket painted in sky blue, paired with royal blue Bermuda shorts and similar boots. She shared her admiration for the brand’s authenticity, stating, “I feel like I’m part of a community. This sense of connection is important and a lot of fun.”
