MILAN — The renowned photographer Oliviero Toscani, known for his controversial advertising campaigns with Benetton during the late 20th century, has passed away at the age of 82. He died on Monday at a hospital in Livorno, Tuscany. Toscani’s family, including his wife Kirsti and their three children, shared the news of his passing, expressing their deep sorrow in a statement that alluded to the struggles he faced with his health. Last year, Toscani revealed he had been diagnosed with amyloidosis, a rare condition characterized by an accumulation of abnormal protein in the body. Reports indicated he lost around 40 kilograms (nearly 90 pounds) in a year, and he expressed his disinterest in continuing life under such circumstances, indicating he was not focused on the length of his life but rather the quality of his work.
Toscani sought to be remembered for the entirety of his influential career instead of being defined by individual photographs. During his tenure with Benetton, which began in the 1980s and ended controversially in 2020, Toscani was noted for creating a series of bold campaigns. His most memorable works included striking images of a pope kissing an imam, inciting outrage from the Vatican, and other visual narratives that highlighted diversity and social issues, such as a priest embracing a nun, a newborn with its umbilical cord, and a black woman nursing a white baby. These campaigns were part of Benetton’s broader efforts to promote messages of tolerance, equality, and environmental consciousness.
In a notable moment during a 1997 shoot for a campaign advocating for peace between Jews and Arabs in Israel, Toscani highlighted the inherent political nature of photography, remarking that all images carry a political message and that his team was committed to portraying reality, even when it invited criticism. He acknowledged the tendency for society to favor conformity over diversity, which often led to backlash against his work. However, Toscani’s dedication to challenging norms was a hallmark of his career.
The collaboration between Toscani and Benetton ended amid controversy in 2020 after he made insensitive remarks regarding the Genoa bridge collapse that resulted in numerous fatalities, drawing ire from the victims’ families. His comment, “Who cares about a bridge collapse?” during an interview was met with backlash, leading to an eventual public apology in which he expressed his regret and shame. Despite this, the damage to his longstanding relationship with the brand was irreversible, as their partnership had been established from 1982 to 2000 and briefly revived in 2018. Benetton paid tribute to Toscani on social media, recalling his legacy with a touching post accompanied by one of his iconic photographs from 1989.
Toscani was born on February 28, 1942, in Milan, to a family involved in photojournalism. He pursued his education in photography and graphics at the University of the Arts in Zurich from 1961 to 1965 and went on to work with prominent fashion publications, including Vogue Italia. Over the course of his acclaimed career, he captured campaigns for several high-profile brands, however, his collaboration with Benetton established his reputation as one of the leading photographers advocating for social change. Toscani’s work included striking visual commentary on issues like anorexia, homophobia, the death penalty, and racism, significantly broadening Benetton’s global branding.
In the early 1990s, Toscani also spearheaded a campaign related to the AIDS crisis, which included a colored condom initiative that aimed to raise awareness about the epidemic. He gained international notoriety for a poignant photo of AIDS activist David Kirby surrounded by his family during his final moments alive. Later, in 2007, Toscani’s “No Anorexia” campaign for Nolita reignited important discussions regarding eating disorders within the fashion industry, using provocative imagery that drew widespread attention during Milan Fashion Week. Throughout his career, he addressed numerous social issues, including road safety, violence against women, and the plight of stray animals, leaving an indelible mark on both photography and social advocacy.
