In the midst of a scorching June in Paris, Issey Miyake unveiled a futuristic display at the Cartier Foundation that blended art with menswear, creating a mesmerizing show where even light played a crucial role. The intense mid-morning sun reflected off the grand steel pillars of the art museum, prompting a playful game of musical chairs among guests who sought to avoid being blinded by the radiance, all while a dynamic soundtrack set the mood.
This season of Paris Fashion Week marks a period of transformation for the Miyake fashion house. Earlier this year, Paris bid farewell to Homme Plissé, the beloved pleated line established on the city’s menswear scene for over a decade. The brand has shifted its focus to more nomadic shows, with recent appearances held under the sunny skies of Tuscany. The spotlight in Paris is now on IM Men, the final collection personally developed by the legendary designer Issey Miyake before his passing in 2022.
IM Men’s latest collection is orchestrated by designers Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi under the concept of “Dancing Texture.” This theme pays homage to the ceramic artistry of Shoji Kamoda, while also celebrating the dreamlike choreography of the models as they moved through the illuminated environment. Models captivated the audience with movements reminiscent of a combination of ballet and a slow-motion video game, blurring the lines between runway show and radiant mirage.
The audience, composed of stylish Parisians, visiting editors, and enthusiasts who regard pleated fashion as a doctrine, maneuvered to both shield themselves from the sun and secure optimal viewing positions. The show kicked off with a model donning an extravagant, angular hat, setting the stage for an array of futuristic silhouettes merging elements of tin man and space ninja, seemingly designed for dance floors elsewhere in the universe.
The garments appeared engineered for a new world, their textures peeling, rippling, and shimmering under the sunlight. Metallic foils caught the eye while jacquard patterns echoed the intricate waves of Kamoda’s pottery. Vibrant vermilion and white designs popped alongside nearly neon green elements crafted from recycled fishing nets. Meanwhile, one coat unzipped to reveal a dramatic collar, and some jackets and pants, when laid flat, morphed into perfect circles, alluding to Kamoda’s wheel-thrown ceramic works.
Issey Miyake’s innovative spirit was evident throughout, with his penchant for engineered pleats and whimsical innovations woven into every piece. Even after his departure, his influence reverberates through every surprising twist and subtle fold on the catwalk.
Originating from Hiroshima in 1938, Miyake’s journey from the ashes of postwar Japan to a trailblazing visionary of global fashion in the 1980s and 1990s remains inspiring. He revolutionized pleating techniques and created boundary-defying lines like Pleats Please and A-POC, merging the worlds of art, science, and everyday wear. His designs redefined fabric, giving it the freedom to move with both the physical body and the creative mind.
Miyake’s brand still courts avant-garde experimentation, occasionally flirting with excess. The show at times teetered on the edge of theatricality, with kinetic art and sci-fi accessories threatening to overshadow the clothing. Yet, moments of elegance, such as a minimalist tangerine overcoat gliding by, showcased that sometimes subtlety speaks loudest in the world of fashion.