Tariffs impact China’s Black hair imports

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    In Atlanta, therapist Brittanee Sims faces a common dilemma among many women in the Black community: the rising cost of hair care. Before the summer heat arrives, Sims typically gets her thick, curly hair styled into braids at a salon to manage her hair’s health and appearance. However, climbing expenses this year have forced her to prioritize hair styling for her teenage children over herself. Without braids, Sims finds that managing her hair becomes more challenging, particularly after workouts, as sweat and humidity contribute to frizz.

    The increasing costs mainly stem from tariffs imposed by the former President Trump’s administration on products and materials essential for Black hair care, impacting consumers and professionals alike. A significant portion of products like synthetic and human hair for extensions, wigs, and styling tools are imported from countries like China, which faced tariffs of up to 145% as of April. Though an agreement reduced the tariff rate on Chinese goods to 30%, the ripple effects are still being felt, with importers and consumers absorbing higher costs.

    Hair industry experts reveal the extensive financial burdens on salons and beauty supply store owners who serve Black communities. Stylists report fewer clients as prices for essential supplies soar. Atlanta stylist Yana Ellis and others in her field speak of hefty shipping fees and increased costs for hair, making it challenging to maintain their business models without passing expenses onto clients. This situation places some, especially those in lower-income areas, in a tough position of asking their clients to supply hair or adapt to fewer product offerings.

    While the global Black hair care industry was valued at about $3.2 billion in 2023, women of color continue to spend more than other demographics on hair maintenance. However, these rising costs highlight an uncomfortable intersection between beauty standards and broader economic inequalities. Many Black women are caught between maintaining their styles and facing unfavorable professional expectations that often favor Eurocentric features.

    Economists and industry consultants warn of further price increases in the coming months, though the extent and duration remain uncertain. Some businesses, like Design Essentials in Atlanta, are attempting to stave off significant price hikes, looking at various internal savings options. Yet, it’s ultimately consumers who shoulder most of the financial burden, according to Cornell McBride Jr., president of the company.

    Hair braiding stylist Hawa Keita, who runs Eve’s African Hair Braiding near Atlanta, explains that maintaining customer loyalty is essential, despite the higher costs of imported hair supplies. The joy from satisfied clients, like a young woman’s delighted reaction to her birthday hairstyle, motivates Keita to absorb losses rather than hike prices. Nonetheless, she acknowledges the difficulties her customers face in affording services amidst these economic pressures.

    Legal and societal frameworks further complicate the situation. Advocates like Tanya Washington, a law professor at Georgia State University, point out how systemic societal norms disadvantage women of non-European descent, particularly in professional environments. She observes that embracing natural hairstyles becomes a personal and professional struggle for those aspiring to compete in settings that value traditionally European aesthetics.

    For many, including clients of stylist Mitzi Mitchell in Pennsylvania, the situation underscores broader racial and economic issues. Mitchell strives to keep her services affordable for minority clients by stocking up on supplies, wary of the market’s tendency toward cheaper yet unsafe alternatives during financial downturns. She and others in the industry face the tough decision of balancing service affordability with maintaining business viability, a challenge intertwined with enduring racial and income disparities in America.