After the busy lunch rush winds down, Chinaโs food delivery drivers take a much-needed break to fuel up. Among them is Liu Lijie, who has parked his electric scooter outside a Beijing restaurant to enjoy his favorite meal of lamb noodle soup, accompanied by pickles, for just 12 yuan ($1.65) โ a discount from its regular price. This is thanks to a community initiative providing discounted meals, known as โaixincanโ or โloving meals,โ aimed at supporting those in financial need without any obligation for explanation.
These meals, also called โsuixincanโ or โfollow-the-heart meals,โ have been a part of Chinese urban culture since the early 2000s, emerging as a way for restaurants to show goodwill and generosity. Restaurants in major cities offer these affordable meals, especially to migrant workers who come in search of employment opportunities.
Liu, who moved from Shanxi province two years ago, appreciates these meals as both an economical and practical choice in managing lifeโs pressures in Beijing. The meals can be a real relief for him and his fellow delivery drivers, who buzz around the city streets as part of Chinaโs bustling gig economy.
Colleague Luo Shuai found out about the discounted meals through his work buddies and now makes daily visits to a local food chain reminiscent of his hometown in Henan province. Luo, like many others, migrated to Beijing for better work prospects, finding solace and reminders of home in the local cuisine.
Recent trends show a shift among nearly 300 million migrant workers in China, with an increased pursuit of gig-based roles like delivery over factory positions. This growing workforce is drawn by the flexibility these jobs offer, although income varies, with full-time drivers earning over $1,500 per month and part-timers in top cities making around $1,000 monthly in 2024.
The availability of discounted meals is indicative of changing times. As urban areas develop, informal eateries once prevalent in cities have vanished, forcing workers to depend more on public benevolence, explained Xiang Biao from the Max Planck Institute for Social Anthropology. The clean-up of โurban villagesโ โ informal worker settlements โ has worsened these communal challenges.
Stigma around seeking free meals is a universal issue but might not resonate as deeply with Chinaโs delivery drivers, who may already experience social exclusion. The manager of a Beijing Muslim Chinese restaurant, Feng Yong, understands the struggles of outsiders in metropolitan areas, having moved from Shandong province over two decades ago. His restaurant, famous for its unique meat pies, participates in the initiative to offer a helping hand to those in need. Feng emphasizes maintaining dignity for all patrons, ensuring they feel welcome without unnecessary probing into their personal situations.
โWe welcome all, ensuring nothing but a full stomach for those who come,โ Feng firmly states, highlighting the initiativeโs core principle of compassion and community support.