In the early 1970s, a young Michael Henry Adams faced a dilemma in his fashion choices. As the trend leaned towards bell bottoms, afros, and the styles portrayed by characters like John Shaft and “Super Fly,” Adams found himself feeling unrepresented. However, an encounter with the “Harlem On My Mind” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art had already planted the seeds of his distinct style ethos.
Adams recalls being mesmerized by images of stylish Harlemites strutting down Seventh and Lennox Avenues in their raccoon and fox coats, spangled gowns, and bowler hats. “I thought, ‘Oh! There is another way for me to be authentically Black,'” said the 69-year-old New York-based cultural and architectural historian, reflecting on the grandeur of the looks he admired.
This particular style, known as dandyism, was celebrated at the recent Met Gala, which launched the “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” exhibit featuring influential tastemakers in their finest attire. Yet Black dandyism transcends expensive couture and is prevalent in daily life. “It’s everywhere in the Black community,” noted Adams, featured in the “Superfine” catalog. “The creativity and ingenuity of Black people in fashion have always been present.”
The Costume Institute’s first exhibition exclusively spotlighting Black designers opens to the public on Saturday. Dandies offer tips on incorporating the style into everyday life.
**Tip 1: Start with confidence**
The first component of a distinct dandy look is internal confidence. “Fashion is about personality. Two people can buy the same outfit and look completely different,” says Guy Wood, the 62-year-old co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery, inspired by his family and Harlem’s dapper community. “Confidence makes heads turn.”
Michael Andrew, a 42-year-old Atlanta style consultant, adopted dandyism after noticing Fonzworth Bentley’s standout style during the early 2000s. “Dandyism is the highest form of taste blended with self-expression,” said Andrew, who featured in Rose Callahan’s 2013 book “I Am Dandy: The Return of the Elegant Gentleman.”
**Tip 2: Opt for statement pieces**
Dandyism is rooted in vivid colors and precise tailoring, allowing for personal interpretation. Wood, who likens his style to cooking gumbo, starts with suits. “Wearing a suit makes you feel significant,” states Wood, frequently pairing suits with brightly colored brogues.
For James McFarland, an 80-year-old master tailor, a dandy’s love for tailoring is obvious. “It’s straightforward: we live in a visual world. Well-tailored clothing grabs attention,” says McFarland, who crafted suits for renowned figures such as Duke Ellington and Muhammad Ali.
Adams prefers bow ties, buck shoes, and straw hats, while Andrew emphasizes that dandyism allows for personal flair. “Texture and patterns are crucial,” Andrew emphasizes. “For me, hats are my signature. Accessories like stylish wool or cashmere socks and pocket squares can elevate an outfit.”
**Tip 3: Creativity outweighs cash**
Creativity, not wealth, defines a dandy, according to Wood. “Most of us don’t have a lot of money. Creativity is essential,” he says. Unexpected sources, like a stylish scarf from a mother’s closet, can contribute significantly to a dandy’s look, according to Wood.
Adams also highlights the importance of individuality in developing personal style. “People should aspire to look like themselves,” he advises, shopping at stores ranging from Brooks Brothers to discount options like Marshalls for inspiration.
Jacques Agbobly, a designer with works in the Met exhibit, agrees. “Dandyism isn’t just about the suit—it’s about expression,” he explains. Utilizing colors and fabrics creatively can redefine what dandyism represents.
**Tip 4: Resist casualness**
Many dandies lament the modern trend towards casual dressing, which contrasts sharply with previous eras. McFarland finds his craft less revered today, though he remains devoted to teaching tailoring and plans to launch a podcast about his experiences with celebrities.
Andrew believes there’s a connection between looking good and feeling proud, encouraging a return to principles of dressing well. “I urge everyone to remember our history and revisit stylish traditions,” he said.
The “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” exhibit, showcasing Black dandyism’s highest forms, will run until October. Yet for Wood and others who embody the style daily, it’s simply part of life. “The Met recognizing this is great,” Wood muses. “But we’ve always been doing it simply out of love for it.”