ROME — As the conclave to elect a new pope approaches, an intriguing situation has arisen among the papal tailors. This will be the first conclave in over 46 years where the Vatican has not placed an official cassock order for the next pope with the two renowned tailors situated near its vicinity, leading to curious anticipation.
Ranieri Mancinelli, a veteran ecclesiastical tailor who established his shop in the 1960s near the Vatican, is preparing for the uncertain. Despite not receiving any official order, he is crafting three simple white cassocks in small, medium, and large sizes on his own initiative. “I’m preparing these cassocks without knowing who the next pope will be,” he explained.
Gammarelli, a historical family-run tailor operating since 1798 near Rome’s iconic Pantheon, has documented orders for every papal transition since the early 1900s, and likely long before that. This marks a significant break from tradition, as the last absence of a pre-conclave order from the Vatican was in October 1978, following the brief tenure of Pope John Paul I. Lorenzo Gammarelli, from the family managing the shop’s sixth generation, notes this interruption while refraining from speculating on the reasons. However, Italian media hints that the Vatican may have an ample supply of unused cassocks and is mindful of Pope Francis’ emphasis on sustainability.
“It’s a little disappointing for us, as even amidst the sorrow following the demise of a pope, the task of creating new garments for his successor remains a special service. Not so this time,” said Gammarelli, who acknowledged the absence of a new commission with a hint of regret.
The Vatican has offered no formal comments regarding what some are referring to as the “great papal cassock race.” “Not every curiosity warrants an official comment,” said Vatican spokesman Matteo Bruni, emphasizing his position of limited responsibility over commercial matters.
The selection of a new pope involves a ceremonial yet practical tradition in which the new head of the Catholic Church dons a freshly prepared white wool cassock, complete with silk buttons and a sash, adding to the moment’s grandeur. This is part of the traditional ensemble, often including a red mozzetta and a zucchetto, but Pope Francis has notably favored simplicity, omitting many traditional garments and opting for black shoes which bear visible signs of wear.
Although Gammarelli typically provides footwear to ensure the new pope’s comfort, the finer details of each conclave remain closely guarded. The intricate considerations extend to estimating body sizes and crafting preparations based on measurements of various cardinals, a practical challenge acknowledged by Gammarelli openly but discreetly.
Unexpected instances are part of the history, as seen in 1978 when the tailors overlooked Polish Cardinal Karol Wojtyla, who became Pope John Paul II. Additionally, practical mishaps have occurred, including instances of the wrong cassock sizes being selected, requiring impromptu solutions like the use of safety pins.
Mancinelli recollects his history with the previous three popes fondly, particularly with Francis and his preference for simpler, more economical attire. He is readying three cassocks of Francis’s preferred understated style without the embellishments of older traditions.
Ultimately, only after the declaration “Habemus Papam!” will it become clear whether the Catholic Church’s new leader will follow in Francis’s minimalist footsteps or choose to revive elements of traditional papal flair. The outcome of this cycle will resonate with both religious followers and the craftspeople who contribute to these centuries-old rituals.