In New York City, a celebration of the sartorially bold is set to take center stage. Figures such as Dapper Dan, Janelle Monáe, and the late André Leon Talley are famed for their distinct fashion statements characterized by vibrant colors, luxurious materials, and whimsical designs. A common element tying their styles together is dandyism, a form of fashion steeped in history. This theme will be prominently showcased at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute spring exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” launched in conjunction with the illustrious Met Gala.
The exhibition draws inspiration from Monica Miller’s book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.” It casts a spotlight on Black fashion, particularly menswear, tracing back from the 18th century to the modern era, with dandyism at its core. Dandyism, which originally described the elegant yet leisurely lifestyle of figures like Regency England’s Beau Brummell, has evolved. This transformation began during the trans-Atlantic slave trade, where young, stylish Black servants in England were often adorned in fine livery that signified their owners’ wealth, effectively making them luxury items.
The stripping of identities from enslaved people gave rise to unique expressions of style, as they added personal touches to their Sunday church attire or festive clothing. Following Emancipation, Black Americans had autonomy like never before, paving the way for transformative periods such as the Harlem Renaissance. During this cultural flourish, Black Americans migrated from the South to Northeastern cities like New York, establishing a vibrant cultural identity in Harlem. Here, notable figures like Langston Hughes and Zora Neale Hurston contributed to altering the cultural fabric, challenging prevailing prejudices while creating a rich tapestry of Black cultural expression.
Fashion during the Harlem Renaissance symbolized a newfound freedom, as Black Americans rejected societal constraints through bold expressions in their clothing. Women opted for luxurious furs and embellished dresses, while men experimented with tailored suits, stylish hats, and two-toned shoes. This era was marked by a new kind of confidence—an assertion of presence mirrored in the fashion choices of the time. Pivotal figures like W.E.B. Du Bois utilized fashion as a means of self-expression, using it as a tool to assert dignity and counteract negative stereotypes.
One notable fashion statement that arose from this period is the zoot suit, characterized by its exaggerated silhouette and excess fabric. In a time of war-induced fabric rationing, the zoot suit’s excess became a statement of resistance and identity, especially resonant among Black, Mexican, and Filipino American communities. During the infamous Zoot Suit Riots in 1943, the suit became a symbol of defiance and racial tension in Los Angeles. Today, its legacy endures, influencing modern designers and illustrating the ongoing dialogue between fashion and identity.
Moreover, dandyism transcends gender norms. Women of the Harlem Renaissance era, such as blues singer Gladys Bentley, subverted traditional gender roles with wardrobe choices that blurred the lines between feminine and masculine fashion. As a modern torchbearer of this legacy, Janelle Monáe has emerged as a style icon who embraces the dandy aesthetic, frequently seen in tailored suits and elaborate accessories.
As the world anticipates the Met Gala’s grand showcase, it celebrates not only modern fashion but also the historical influence of Black dandies who laid the groundwork for contemporary icons. “Black people, Black men are finally getting their flowers for being true style icons,” says designer Ev Bravado, acknowledging the long-overdue recognition of ancestral contributions to fashion. Sunday’s event will honor this rich heritage, ensuring that the legacies of those who defined Black style continue to inspire.