PENN YAN, N.Y. — A decade ago, Scott Osborn was enthusiastic about encouraging potential vineyard owners to dive into the wine industry. However, his perspective has changed over time.
Osborn, who manages Fox Run Vineyards, a 50-acre estate on Seneca Lake in New York’s Finger Lakes region, now tells aspiring vineyard owners that they’re “crazy.” The risks associated with grape growing in this renowned winemaking area have been escalating due to the unpredictable weather patterns linked to climate change. Additionally, shifting consumer attitudes, political tensions over tariffs from trade conflicts, and environmental policy reversals further complicate the landscape.
Despite these hurdles, numerous winegrowers are adopting sustainable methods with the dual aim of combatting global warming and adapting to evolving circumstances.
The Finger Lakes, with their crystalline water shimmering like sapphires under the sun, are home to over 130 wineries along their shores, producing some of America’s most celebrated white wines. At Fox Run, visitors enjoy wine tastings and often leave with a souvenir bottle. Long-time patrons like Michele Magda and her husband travel from Pennsylvania, describing the area as a “little escape.”
Traditionally, grape buds start to sprout in spring, producing vibrant grapes from cabernet franc’s deep blue to soft green rieslings, the region’s favorite. However, global warming has been causing these buds to appear earlier, increasing risk. A sudden frost can devastate a crop, jeopardizing the harvest.
Finger Lakes stands out from West Coast wine regions due to year-round rainfall and warmer nights, said Paul Brock, a professor of viticulture at Finger Lakes Community College. This unique climate requires local winemakers to be adaptable, which offers them a competitive edge.
Worldwide, vineyards face choppy weather patterns, with grim evidence surfacing from France’s record rainfall affecting growers and wildfires on the West Coast deteriorating wine quality.
Yet, many vineyards are stepping up to the challenge by pioneering sustainable efforts, aiming to mitigate the climate impact of burning fossil fuels. Certifications like the New York Sustainable Winegrowing program guide growers towards enhancing soil health and water quality around lakes. Fox Run, among 50 others, has earned this credential through several initiatives on Osborn’s farm.
Prominent among these is the array of solar panels supplying 90% of the vineyard’s electricity, alongside less conspicuous efforts like fungal webs beneath the soil that protect crops from drought and disease. “We all have to do something,” Osborn stated.
In particular, Suzanne Hunt’s family, stewards of a seventh-generation vineyard, is spearheading climate-conscious practices at Hunt Country Vineyards on Keuka Lake. They utilize geothermal systems, composting, and similar methods to lessen their environmental footprint. Nonetheless, climate change poses existential threats, with severe frosts triggering “catastrophic” losses and altering consumer habits as national wine consumption has waned.
By year-end, the vineyard plans to cease wine production, opting instead to focus on community initiatives and grape sales. Hunt reflects on this transition, expressing a desire to help fellow farms tackle sustainability challenges. “I’ll let the people whose dream and life is to make wine do that part,” she shared.
Meanwhile, Vinny Aliperti, owner of Billsboro Winery on Seneca Lake, is striving to minimize the wine industry’s ecological impact, such as establishing communal dumpsters for wine bottles to prevent glass waste and repurpose it for construction.
Aliperti urges more wineries to participate in these efforts, especially as the current political administration shows minimal focus on sustainability. “We’re all a bit scared…a bit depressed,” he confessed. Environmental aid programs essential for economic investment in renewable energy like solar panels are facing potential cuts.
Trade tensions could further strain business, with Canada implementing significant tariffs on U.S. goods, including wine, which could translate into lost sales for American wines. Without financial help from past federal programs, Osborn foresees difficulty expanding his vineyard’s sustainability projects.
Yet loyal customers like Aric Bryant continue to support local wines amidst these trials, expressing an unwavering commitment to Finger Lakes offerings.
“I go to restaurants, and if they don’t have Finger Lakes wines on their menu, I’m like, ‘What are you even doing serving wine?’” he commented.
Despite formidable challenges, New York’s wine community seems determined to navigate a path forward, intertwined with traditions, and steered toward sustainable innovation.