CHIMAYÓ, N.M. — Each year, the serene landscape of northern New Mexico welcomes a surge of Catholic pilgrims who embark on a sacred journey towards the renowned El Santuario de Chimayó. This pilgrimage, deeply rooted in tradition, sees individuals walking across the desert terrain to honor Good Friday.
Originating from various destinations, pilgrims begin their expedition with the first light of dawn, traversing under the celestial gaze of a half moon. Carrying glow-sticks, flashlights, and walking staffs, they are driven by faith and devotion. At the heart of their journey lies an indoor well filled with soil that is believed to possess healing properties, drawing people who hope for miracles, leaving behind crutches, braces, and canes as testament to their prayers.
Visitors pass through an adobe archway to enter the sanctuary, where they find the crucified Nuestro Señor de Esquipulas standing vigil at the altar. Legend holds that this crucifix, dating back to the early 1800s, was discovered onsite, mysteriously linked to its historical counterpart in the Guatemalan town of Esquipulas.
Chimayó is not only renowned for its spiritual significance but also for its cultural heritage, celebrated through artisan weavings and chile harvests. Nestled above the Rio Grande Valley and in contrast to the significant scientific endeavors at Los Alamos, the adobe church at Chimayó is a revered structure. Established during the twilight of Spanish rule in the early 1800s, it is situated on land cherished by Native Americans.
This historic edifice, designated as a National Historic Landmark, showcases 19th-century Hispanic folk art, religious frescoes, and wood-carved saints known as bultos. A nearby chapel is devoted to the Santo Niño de Atocha, patron saint of children and travelers, where countless children’s shoes, left by the faithful, hang in honor of the miraculous child. These miraculous stories are steeped in the region’s history, with Pueblo people attributing healing qualities to the springs that once existed here.
Miguel Gandert, a photographer from the Española valley, reminisces about his own family pilgrimages to Chimayó. “Everybody went to Chimayó. It’s a place of powerful spirituality,” he recalls. Memories of previous pilgrimages, captured through his lens, depict a tapestry of people and emotions: children savoring snow cones, men bearing heavy wooden crosses, and groups of travelers catching a moment’s rest.
The determination of today’s pilgrims echoes through the corridors of time as they continue this enduring tradition. Among them is Adrian Atencio of San Juan Pueblo, who, since childhood, has made this journey, this year walking with thoughts of new beginnings and family.
In a region scattered with adobe churches, these structures form the backbone of New Mexican community life. Yet, many teeter on the brink of decay as congregations shrink and traditions wane. Pilgrims endure journeys over varying landscapes, from the juniper-dotted arid desert to the lush green of final approach. Along the way, vendors and volunteers offer refreshment and protection, ensuring every traveler arrives safely.
Dianna De Leon from Albuquerque speaks of the profound experiences the pilgrimage offers, walking alongside her elderly mother, Victoria Trujillo, who has attended for decades. For many, these journeys are about more than remembrance; they are filled with prayers and hopes for those they love.
“It’s a little piece of heaven — all this faith and all this hope,” Trujillo reflects, marking over half a century in this sacred tradition, only skipped during the halt caused by the pandemic.