NEW YORK — The suit symbolizes much more than just meticulous tailoring. Curators at the newest Met Gala exhibit are uncovering layers of history, culture, identity, and especially self-expression in their latest display. Titled “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” this spring’s show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute will be inaugurated at the Met Gala on May 5, marked by its impressive guest list. This exhibit uniquely emphasizes Black designers for the first time and revisits menswear as a theme after more than two decades.
This year’s gala dress code, “Tailored For You,” encourages attendees to indulge their creativity within the traditional tailoring style, predicting an abundance of stunning suits. Guest curator Monica L. Miller, a professor at Barnard College, underscores the versatility found in suits, from Savile Row styles to casual track suits, as she prepares over 200 descriptive labels for the showcase.
Miller posits that a suit goes beyond mere physical fit; it’s about what the wearer chooses to express. The exhibit finds its roots in her 2009 book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.” Andrew Bolton, who leads the Costume Institute shows, appointed Miller to harness dandyism’s boundary-pushing essence and its influence on Black style over time.
The exhibit is segmented into 12 themes: Ownership, Presence, Distinction, Disguise, Freedom, Champion, Respectability, Jook, Heritage, Beauty, Cool, and Cosmopolitanism. Each section blends historic and contemporary fashion, beginning with artifacts from as early as the 18th century. Guests fortunate enough to attend the gala will witness the intersection of history with modern style. This year’s gala co-chairs feature influencer Pharrell Williams, Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton, actor Colman Domingo, and rapper A$AP Rocky, with an honorary seat for NBA legend LeBron James.
Adding further star appeal is a separate host committee that includes names like Simone Biles, Jonathan Owens, Spike Lee, Ayo Edebiri, Janelle Monáe, André 3000, and author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, alongside other prominent artists and fashion figures. During the gala’s cocktail hour, attendees will have the opportunity to explore the exhibit and its intricate displays. Among the pieces is a historic horse jockey uniform dating from 1830 to 1840.
In the exhibit’s installation room, a staff member meticulously restored these ethnic jockey trousers, symbolizing the cultural heritage the show aims to celebrate. Highlighting its diverse range, the exhibit displays a 1987 Jeffrey Banks classic double-breasted suit beside a distinct ensemble by Brooklyn-based designer Jacques Agbobly, representing Black, queer, and immigrant narratives.
The variety emphasizes both notable designers and underrepresented voices, spanning across history and across varying social and economic contexts. Due to a scarcity of garments attributable to Black Americans before the late 1800s, earlier features are portrayed through paintings, prints, decorative arts, and photographs. Miller mentions the “respectability” section which includes W.E.B. Du Bois’ receipts for tailoring, illustrating his global pursuit of style. Meanwhile, the “jook” section adds dynamism through a clip of the Nicholas Brothers’ 1943 tap dance, showcasing their remarkable athletic dress.
The tuxedo, like the suit, bridges social divides as it is worn across different layers of society. Miller articulates the significance of such attire in conveying discussions of class and gender. Public viewing of “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” begins May 10, running through October 26, inviting audiences to connect with the profound narratives conveyed through the craftsmanship of suits.