In the fields surrounding their hometown of Akouda in central Tunisia, a growing number of young, unemployed men are venturing into a unique trade to sustain themselves. They scour the landscapes, plucking snails from rocks and leaves, gathering them in large plastic bags to later sell at the local market.
The demand for these shelled creatures has increased as typical grocery items remain costly and unattainable for numerous families. “They’re profitable, beneficial, and quite in demand,” noted Karim, a 29-year-old who earns his living selling snails.
For over seven millennia, Tunisians have indulged in snails, as supported by a study published in the Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences journal last year. Once considered a gourmet treat, snails have reemerged in Tunisia as a practical and nutritious alternative to red meat, offering protein-rich nourishment that blends well with salt, spices, and robust seasonings.
Particularly in an economy where youth unemployment surpasses 40% and inflation remains high long after peaking in recent years, snails represent a crucial means of survival. This economic struggle has led to social unrest across the nation and a surge in emigration toward Europe.
Snails boast low fat along with essential nutrients like iron, calcium, and magnesium, delivering both health benefits and financial respite. With mounting unemployment and low median wages, snails sell for about half the price of beef per kilogram and often cheaper when purchased by the bowl.
“In cooking, snails outmatch lamb. While lamb meat costs around 60 dinars ($19.30), a bowl of snails is merely five dinars ($1.60),” shared Mohammed at the Akouda market.
As meat and poultry prices soar, more Tunisians opt for these affordable protein sources. This shift is not only budget-friendly but also draws interest due to the environmental benefits of such alternatives. Experts highlight snails as a sustainable choice, producing significantly lower carbon emissions and circumventing the deforestation associated with conventional livestock farming.
Wahiba Dridi, who features snails in her Tunis-based restaurant, prepares them traditionally, employing peppers and spices. They gained popularity during Ramadan, which concluded last week. Though Tunisian Muslims historically consume red meat to break their daily fasts, a kilogram of snails costs less than 28 dinars ($9), while beef is priced at 55 dinars per kilogram ($18).
Dridi remarked, “If people understood the value of snails, they would eat them year-round.”