In the bustling heart of Mexico City lies Quintonil, a restaurant that defies typical expectations. With a reputation that precedes it, tables here are reserved months ahead, often marking cherished personal milestones. Recently, the World’s 50 Best List recognized it as the top eatery in Mexico and the seventh best across the globe. On rare occasions, the dishes at Quintonil evoke deep emotional responses, with patrons moved to tears over a simple tamale.
Quintonil’s founder, Chef Jorge Vallejo, has curated a menu steeped in tradition. By spotlighting street food and pre-Hispanic delights, he offers a nostalgic journey through Mexican heritage. For around 4,950 pesos per person, guests are treated to dishes that celebrate both home and history. The tamale, deriving its name from the Nahuatl word for “wrapped,” embodies this mission. A staple of Mesoamerican cuisine, tamales consist of steamed corn dough filled with savory or sweet fillings and served with sauce.
Mexico boasts around 500 tamale varieties, serving not only as culinary treats but also holding ritual significance, as detailed in ethnologist Samuel Villela’s studies. Quintonil’s clientele is mainly international, drawn by the two Michelin stars it earned last year. Yet, many are also Mexicans returning to connect with their roots, savoring flavors that serve as a bridge to their identity.
Vallejo’s vision for Quintonil materialized 13 years ago. Envisioned initially as a fonda, or a place offering home-style meals, he never anticipated owning an acclaimed restaurant. His aim has consistently been to represent Mexico’s rich culinary tapestry. Vallejo’s culinary journey began in a quaint fonda he frequented with his mother, later evolving with formal training in the culinary arts.
His career path included a stint aboard a cruise line, honing his logistics skills in food preparation for masses. Eventually, back in Mexico, he joined forces with his wife at Pujol, a prestigious establishment led by renowned chef Enrique Olvera. The couple went on to launch Quintonil, their shared mission being to narrate Mexico’s diverse stories through food.
Travel plays a pivotal role in Vallejo’s process. It allows him to exchange ideas with fellow chefs, engage with local farmers, and explore remote communities, understanding the intricate dance between food and tradition. He emphasizes Mexico’s unique ecosystems and ingredients, many of which are exclusive to the region, deeply embedding the country’s recipes and customs within its cultural fabric.
In line with this ethos, Quintonil’s menu frequently incorporates insects, a relic from pre-Hispanic times. Vallejo highlights various regional insect delicacies, such as “escamoles” in Mexico City or “chicatana” ants in Oaxaca, showcasing the nation’s diverse culinary history. Alexandra Bretón, a food blogger, praises Vallejo for elevating Mexican gastronomy, recalling exquisite experiences at Quintonil where ordinary ingredients were elevated to an art form.
Bretón fondly recounts a visit where she enjoyed tamales with duck and savored a taco, common yet transformed under Vallejo’s mastery into a culinary wonder. Quintonil’s sous chef, Geraldine Rodríguez, underscores their commitment to nourishing diners and presenting an authentic portrait of Mexico. She emphasizes how fine dining has shifted from lavish imports to valuing ancestral cuisine passed down through generations.
Part of Quintonil’s allure lies in its interactive dining approach. Guests are encouraged to engage with their food, wrapping ingredients in tortillas, embracing a ritual ingrained in Mexican culture. This intimacy aims to make patrons feel at home, regardless of their origins.
The meticulous attention to detail at Quintonil is evident in the labor-intensive tasks its staff undertakes, from selecting perfect garnishes to maintaining unique decor elements like the “milpa,” a nod to Mesoamerican agricultural traditions. In the end, these efforts are about more than just serving food—they’re about crafting moments that resonate deeply with diners.
Rodríguez recollects one poignant memory where her father, celebrating his 50th birthday at Quintonil, was moved to tears by a dish that reminded him of his mother. This emotional connection is what Vallejo strives to achieve. While accolades are appreciated, he measures success by the feelings elicited through his creations.
Quintonil’s culinary philosophy revolves around connecting with the land and ingredients, weaving a tapestry of flavors that evoke not just emotions but profound feelings. For Vallejo, creating such meaningful experiences marks the pinnacle of culinary achievement.
