PARIS—The world of fashion has received its seasonal decree from Paris, where boldness is the watchword for the coming fall. Expect to see powerful shoulders, generous outerwear, and a color scheme oscillating between the solemn and the surreal.
While Milan embraced romance and New York flirted with Y2K grunge, Paris stepped in with unwavering precision and theatrical flair. The focus is on substantial coats, refined tailoring, and an overall emphasis on drama. These trends quickly permeate the broader fashion landscape as brands like Zara, H&M, and Shein swiftly transform high-fashion spectacles into widely accessible styles.
In terms of outerwear, Paris has taken opulence to an extreme. This season’s coats are not just oversized—they’re gigantic. Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière introduced quilt-sized coats with panniers evocative of 19th-century railway adventurers. Balenciaga, under Demna’s direction, opted for a sculptural volume expressed in wool coats and puffer-trench hybrids, turning toward minimalist drama. Marine Serre stood out by using upcycled materials to create oversized outerwear, marrying abundant style with ethical practices.
This season reintroduces power shoulders with a commanding presence. Sarah Burton’s premiere at Givenchy delivered tailored coats with exacting shoulder lines, softened with exquisite draping. Victoria Beckham accentuated the shoulder on evening wear, leaving an imposing effect. Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson infused surreal elements into exaggerated silhouettes, while Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello focused on pure, sculpted shoulders to evoke a sense of armor and dominance.
The color scheme this fall has cinematic undertones. Valentino, under Alessandro Michele, showcased a collection awash with deep, vivid reds, while Akris exhibited an array of blues ranging from midnight to cerulean, presenting a reflective take on fabric and luminosity. Balenciaga, in stark contrast, used black in a stripped-back manner, allowing the hue’s depth to make its statement.
A notable shift is evident as high fashion sees a retreat of logos, signaling a return to subtle, thoughtful luxury. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri revitalized historic silhouettes with impeccable tailoring, asserting that true luxury lies in craftsmanship. Rick Owens also leaned into this minimalistic ethos with masterful construction—think leather-lined bomber jackets and natural rubber hoodies.
The intersection of technology and couture took center stage, prominently with Coperni’s runway transformed into a ’90s LAN party with influencers live-streaming the show. Fashion took cues from cyberculture, and Louis Vuitton partnered with Kraftwerk for a capsule invoking Trans-Europe Express themes, merging tradition with futuristic nuances. Balenciaga joined forces with Puma, merging couture with sportswear.
Femininity took on a bolder edge this season. Designers unveiled femininity in its rawest, most potent form. Rick Owens’s models donned structured jackets but revealed bare torsos, while Givenchy balanced sheer knit catsuits with sharp tailoring. Valentino took a daring approach with plunging necklines and provocative lace. The Oscars, with their sheer gowns, echoed this theme, but Paris added a tougher twist by pairing sheer elements with corsetry.
As the final say in the fashion calendar, Paris decisively sets the agenda. The city has decreed: be daring, embrace grandeur, and prioritize timeless pieces. Whether through a commanding coat, bold shoulders, or luxurious textiles, the collections this season convey not just trends but powerful statements, offering sartorial confidence amidst today’s uncertainties.
