PARIS — With the absence of a prominent leader, one might expect Chanel to face challenges. The iconic fashion house has been without a creative helm following Virginie Viard’s unexpected departure, leaving it in a state of uncertainty. The brand is currently poised for a new chapter with the anticipated arrival of Matthieu Blazy this fall.
Yet, as if defying expectations, Chanel has continued its tradition of endurance and splendor. Held in the opulent Grand Palais during Paris Fashion Week, Chanel’s fall show embraced a majestic theme. A towering black ribbon spiraled skyward, serving as a dramatic centerpiece in a collection that might have been seen as transitional. However, instead of being an interlude, the collection was a testament to Chanel’s signature finesse, precision, and timeless elegance.
The front row was a blend of fashion’s elite and Hollywood’s brightest. Icons like Naomi Campbell, Riley Keough, and Charlotte Casiraghi graced the event, joined by actresses Dakota Fanning and Simone Ashley. Adding to this glamorous mix was the musical talent of Raye and AP Dhillon, highlighting Chanel’s broad, intergenerational allure.
The show brought forth an enchanting play on signature elements: bows, pearls, and a touch of sheer brilliance. Transparent layers adorned many of the designs — a delicate silk veiling jackets, netted overlays subtly shifting the perception of traditional tweed, and light, ethereal capes gracing classic Chanel outlines.
This juxtaposition of airy textures with structured forms gave the collection a dreamy, surreal quality. Details like satin ribbons trimming a military-inspired tweed jacket, and oversized bows decorating sheer organza tunics, showcased Chanel’s dedication to craftsmanship. Among the designs, a standout feature was a fluttering ribbon print on dresses, echoing Chanel’s iconic interlocking Cs in a unique fresh take.
The collection also experimented with surrealist multilayerings — cherry red tweed ensembles paired with matching accessories like a boater hat and contrasting gloves created a captivating ensemble. Chanel displayed its command over the art of juxtaposing airy materials with strong styling points.
Among the many applause-worthy features, a statement accessory took center stage: a massive pearl handbag. This piece appeared not once, but in multiple outfits, capturing the attention of every camera in the room. Alongside Chanel’s signature monochrome elegance, vibrant elements like red tweeds and colorful silk linings added a dynamic spin, reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s vibrant aesthetics.
Naomi Campbell, a stalwart of Chanel, embraced the show’s nods to the past. Speaking about the nostalgic references to the ’90s, she remarked, “I appreciate the craftsmanship, the thoughtfulness that delves into the brand’s core philosophy. This show echoes the past with its skirts, jackets, and versatility in wear.”
Reflecting on her longtime friend, the late Lagerfeld, Campbell expressed her wistfulness. “His honesty and vision were unparalleled. Those late-night collaborations were remarkable. Karl’s essence still lingers in each collection.”
Beyond the meticulous designs, Campbell highlighted Chanel’s advancements in inclusivity. With Lupita Nyong’o’s appointment as a house ambassador last year, Chanel furthered its commitment to diversity. Particularly noteworthy was Chanel’s trailblazing Métiers d’Art show in Dakar in 2022, an historic first for luxury branding in sub-Saharan Africa. This event marked the beginning of a significant cultural exchange, emphasizing not only fashion but meaningful global art and collaboration.
“Chanel is truly taking tangible steps,” Campbell noted, glowing with pride. “Witnessing this evolution during my career is inspiring.”
Campbell has often spoken about the discrimination she faced throughout her storied career. Despite her standing, she recalls a lack of opportunities in advertising, only securing a cosmetics contract by 1999. Her advocacy for greater diversity in the fashion industry remains steadfast, driven by her experiences and initiatives like the Diversity Coalition.
The momentum towards inclusivity is gradual, yet undeniable.
The representation of legacy was a thematic highlight, especially through Riley Keough’s connection to Chanel. The granddaughter of Elvis Presley and star of “Daisy Jones & The Six,” she shared her excitement about partnering with Chanel, following in her mother’s stead at Graceland.
Reflecting on her personal style—favoring less conventional, androgynous aesthetics—Keough connects her fashion choices to her iconic lineage. “It’s about recognizing past influences while maintaining my distinct voice,” she shared.
With Matthieu Blazy preparing to take over in October, the future of Chanel beckons with promise. Keough aptly encapsulated the mood, “There is great anticipation for what Chanel will become. Given its rich history, I have no doubts about its forthcoming successes.”
