In Paris, the Sacai fashion brand, led by designer Chitose Abe, unveiled its newest fall collection, showcasing a sophisticated evolution of Abe’s renowned hybrid styles. This latest exhibition, presented on a Monday, focused on the concept of enveloping, using layers to create a sense of both security and allure.
For this season, Abe softened her typical deconstructed attire, opting for a fluid elegance that contrasted with previous robust designs. The usual cacophony of elements was replaced by slender, flowing shapes that conveyed a quiet sophistication. Drawing inspiration from her menswear designs, Abe incorporated fur but with a lighter, more refined approach. Fur accents appeared on jackets and tops, and plush accessories, like bags, complemented a fur T-shirt dress adorned with a woven graphic, which added an understated drama to the ensemble.
Designs featured long mermaid skirts that hugged the silhouette, sometimes crafted with repurposed and graphic panels, and were paired with relaxed riding boots. Luxurious touches, such as sequins and feathered textures, brought a softening effect to the typically edgy Sacai aesthetic. The collection included ponchos fashioned from materials like puffer, wool, and fur, draping elegantly around models and providing chic, yet practical warmth.
A signature of Abe’s work, textile innovation featured prominently in the collection. Military-inspired jackets were uniquely combined with knitted sections, juxtaposing tactile warmth with structured tailoring. Select pieces were adorned with “photo stitch” embroideries, influenced by the artist Man Ray, highlighting facial features like lips and eyes—subtle gestures toward beauty and intimacy amidst an overarching theme of embrace and movement.
The Sacai woman is known for her interplay of contrasts, and this season showcased a more sensuous approach to the theme of protection. Celebrating 25 years in the fashion industry, Chitose Abe continues to redefine boundaries, not by breaking them, but by honing them with precision and creativity.
