In Cyprus, the renowned Commandaria wine, lauded by ancient Greek legends such as Homer and Euripides, holds the title of the world’s oldest recorded and named wine, dating back nearly 3,000 years. Despite its illustrious past, this sweet, decadent wine has faced challenges in securing a strong presence on the global stage. Recently, several micro-wineries on this eastern Mediterranean island are seeking to revitalize traditional wine-making methods, aiming for a resurgence in Commandaria’s popularity.
Drawing inspiration from its storied history, producers hope to propel Commandaria forward. The wine is fabled to have claimed victory in the world’s premier wine competition during the 13th century under the reign of French King Philippe Augustus. It was reportedly served by English King Richard the Lionheart at his 1191 nuptials in Cyprus. Additionally, in the 14th century, London Mayor Henry Picard is believed to have provided it during the opulent Feast of the Five Kings that featured leaders from England, France, Scotland, Denmark, and Cyprus.
Originally referred to as “nama” in ancient times, its name transformed under the medieval Knights Hospitaller during the Third Crusade who named their wine-producing estate Grande Commanderie, acknowledging the area’s celebrated wine. Later, during the Byzantine era, Cyprus’s Orthodox Church embraced Commandaria as its communion wine. During the Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries, Commandaria peaked in production, valued for its sweetness and fiery complexity.
Today, a bottle of Commandaria sells for anywhere between 20 Euros ($20) and 150 Euros, depending on the quality and vintage. The wine’s distinctive notes of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee, and caramel are credited to Cyprus’s nutrient-rich volcanic soil, as noted by Christakis Nicolaou, the community leader of Zoopigi village and home to the Commandaria museum.
Savvas Constantinou, a beverage inspector with Cyprus’s agriculture and environment ministry, highlighted a stagnant annual production figure of 200,000 bottles due to dwindling demand. A significant impact was the loss of about 800,000 Russian tourists, passionate about Commandaria, after sanctions were implemented in response to Russia’s expansionist actions in Ukraine. Attempts to breach the vast Chinese market showed potential five years ago, yet floundered as producers couldn’t meet demand.
According to esteemed wine expert Demetri Walters, holding the esteemed title of Master of Wines, Commandaria struggled with international sales primarily due to inadequate marketing strategies. Major producers, such as KEO, were somewhat hesitant to explore the potential, especially in their older vintages. Walters laments this oversight as Commandaria represents fantastic value and excellent quality, memorable for its complexity, despite sweet wines generally being “out of fashion.”
Wineries like Revecca, based in Ayios Mamas, have seen growing domestic and international interest since launching in 2015. With their Commandaria securing top honors in national wine competitions and an annual production of 3,000 bottles, the winery has cultivated a loyal following. Winery curator Nikolas Christodoulides is focusing on bespoke varieties to tailor offerings to specific tastes rather than prioritize volume, leading to success stories such as recurrent visits from an Israeli couple to replenish their inventory.
Commandaria’s creation involves the indigenous Mavro and Xynisteri grape varieties, basking in the sun for up to 12 days post-harvest to enhance their inherent sweetness. The maturation process in oak barrels endures at least two years, adhering to strict EU protected designation of origin guidelines. Genuine Commandaria is exclusively produced from 14 designated villages on the southern slopes of the Troodos mountain range, benefiting from abundant sunlight.
Some wineries offer a sweeter variant, focusing solely on the Mavro grape, a preferred style at the Karseras winery in Doros, producing an average of 40 tons annually. Although domestic consumption is rising, it has yet to fully compensate for the loss of the Russian market.
However, the momentum gathered by smaller vineyards like Revecca sustains optimism. Christodoulides from Revecca emphasizes, “We must maintain consistent quality and capture domestic interest prior to a cohesive international marketing effort for Commandaria.”
