Balenciaga is renowned for its ability to surprise and captivate its audience with bold statements, often thanks to the creative brain of Demna. However, this season marks a significant departure from the brand’s characteristic flair as Demna takes a more measured approach in his latest collection. Titled “Standard,” the fall collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week took on an air of precision and subtlety, leaning more towards traditional style codes that were slightly reinterpreted but remained largely intact.
The showcase took place inside a dimly lit labyrinth of black curtains within the Cour du Dôme des Invalides. This setup created a sensation of motion and intimacy, but without the grandeur typical of Balenciaga’s theatrics. Models navigated the narrow corridors alongside VIP attendees, including Tyra Banks, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Jessica Alba, their steps synchronized to Beethoven’s haunting Moonlight Sonata.
This season, businesswear took center stage, featuring suits with a dual personality—some crisp and others intentionally crumpled. Denim pencil skirts, corset-style shirts, and elongated coats introduced structural contrasts, supplemented by cocooned hoods and dramatically accentuated lapels that infused a sculptural element into the ensemble.
Yet, there was a distinct restraint in the collection’s impact. Silhouettes, once enveloping, now adhered to traditional forms. Even sportswear was subdued—tracksuits and bomber jackets presented a more streamlined appearance, and while Demna is known for radical denim transformations, this time they were merely treated to appear permanently creased rather than revolutionary.
Absent from this year’s collection were the dramatic touches and shock elements of previous seasons. Instead, the focus was firmly on nuanced modifications. Some viewed this as a refinement of the designer’s vision, while others perceived it as a step back from the audacious expressions that initially defined Demna’s tenure at Balenciaga.
This evolution was further underscored by the collaboration with PUMA. While the partnership was clearly designed for commercial success, its straightforwardness appeared to be in tension with Demna’s historical tendency to reinvent streetwear. Critics noted the simplicity as a shift towards accessibility, perhaps at the expense of innovation.
With apparent commercial reorientation, the collection seemed crafted for enduring retail appeal rather than fleeting digital buzz. By dialing down the provocation, Demna has highlighted business attire, refined outerwear, and luxe-level sportswear, indicating a thoughtful strategy for a commercially sustainable Balenciaga. The tailoring was sharp, the jackets softened, and the layering suggested versatility in wear.
Despite subtle innovations, such as a reversed quarter-zip offering an unusual neckline and a bathrobe-inspired coat merging casual comfort with structured sophistication, the collection did not push the creative limits like previous iterations. Although appropriately titled “Standard,” the question remains: Is Demna shaping Balenciaga’s destiny afresh, or is he aligning with a more conventional trajectory?
