During the fall showcase of Vivienne Westwood’s latest collection in Paris, designer Andreas Kronthaler exhibited a bold statement: the spirit of rebellion lives on. Displayed at the Pavillon Cambon, the range of garments presented was a striking blend of irreverence and elegance, seamlessly intertwining precision tailoring with Westwood’s characteristic playful attitude.
Brimming with confidence, the show underscored the idea that “There’s nothing more sexy than a suit,” as emphasized in the show notes. Kronthaler embraced this ethos wholeheartedly, with power suits taking center stage. Oversized blazers were artfully paired with silky shirts, trousers transformed into asymmetrical skirts, and trench coats adopted dramatic dimensions. One standout piece was a deeply hued navy, double-breasted coat, cinched at the waist, and topped with an imposing felt hat—an inventive homage to British nobility if they harbored a hint of punk and humor.
Texture played a pivotal role, contrasting chunky wool coats against lustrous metallic hoods and mottled knitwear. Velvets and tulle gowns highlighted the body’s form with exaggerated padding at the hips and shoulders, adding to the drama. The accessories were quintessentially Westwood, featuring playful elements such as furry heels, intentionally mismatched socks, and a gilded birdcage handbag, which combined opulence with irony.
This collection was also a personal celebration for Kronthaler, marking his three decades in London by weaving in subtle nods to the city’s diverse energy. This synergy of street-smart audacity and regal magnificence infused the collection with a unique flair. The show concluded with a personal touch: as the final model left the runway, Kronthaler appeared, bouquet in hand, showering the audience with flowers in a spontaneous and theatrical gesture that matched the vibrancy of his designs.
Vivienne Westwood has always been synonymous with defying conventions. With Kronthaler at the helm, this rebellious legacy continues to thrive, invigorated with a daring and dramatic new vigor.
