PARIS — The commencement of Givenchy’s latest design direction captained by its new creative director unfolded on Friday, marking a significant highlight of Paris Fashion Week. This moment symbolized a long-anticipated transformation for the fashion house, which in recent years has struggled to clearly define its identity.
Sarah Burton, stepping into the role last September, confronted the formidable legacy of Givenchy—a brand sealed in cinematic history by Audrey Hepburn’s iconic little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This legacy was later reimagined by Riccardo Tisci, who dominated the brand’s style with his gothic, street-inspired designs over his 12-year tenure until his departure in 2017.
Following Tisci’s exit, Givenchy found itself at a crossroads, vacillating between its classical roots and the lingering influence of Tisci’s vision. Under Burton—an acclaimed designer renowned for her emotionally resonant, ornate collections during her tenure at Alexander McQueen—the question surfaced whether she would take a revolutionary path or steer the brand back to its origins.
Friday’s debut provided the answer: a methodical refinement rather than a complete transformation. Burton articulated her vision, stating, “To progress, you must return to your beginnings. For me, this means returning to the atelier — the heart of Givenchy.”
Within an intimate setting carefully designed by Burton, the collection presentation was nonetheless framed by an unexpected backdrop—a WWII bomb discovered near Paris’s Gare du Nord caused travel disruptions, delaying attendees’ arrivals.
Inside the Givenchy venue on Avenue George V, Burton crafted a sense of controlled intimacy, eschewing flashy theatrics in favor of focusing on the craftsmanship. Among the audience were notable figures like Gwendoline Christie, Rooney Mara, Vanessa Kirby, and Yseult, all absorbing the collection’s essence.
The collection itself was a testament to precision rather than spectacle, deeply influenced by Burton’s refined style, nurtured through nearly three decades at Alexander McQueen. Known for transforming McQueen’s fierce aesthetics into expressions of powerful femininity, Burton’s work at Givenchy reflects a different philosophy of subtle elegance.
This equilibrium—balancing heritage with innovation—was manifested in designs such as a pale yellow onesie that merged the vintage vibes of the 1960s with a futuristic appeal. The collection’s hallmark silhouettes included dresses gracefully draped, appearing to defy gravity and merging couture with a sportif edge.
With respectful nods to Givenchy’s storied archives, Burton incorporated classical elements like strong shoulders and hourglass waists, reinventing these into modern interpretations: Chantilly lace transformed into micro lengths, cocoon coats with a new sensuality, and leather drapery reminiscent of scarves.
A standout moment featured Czech model and actor Eva Herzigová on the runway, emphasizing the perpetual connection to Givenchy’s classical roots.
Yet, some designs rang familiar bells. Burton’s adaptation of Givenchy’s famed “Babydoll” dress from Spring/Summer 1958 haute couture was an ambitious modern take aimed at Fall/Winter 2025. Yet, this tulle creation veered closer to Giambattista Valli’s domain than Givenchy’s historical essence, adding a lush flourish to the disciplined showcase.
The intentional restraint in Burton’s debut was evident, hinting at a gradual evolution rather than drastic change. Her approach at Givenchy seems aimed at heightening expectations subtly over time, rather than rewriting the brand’s identity in one stroke. This carefully crafted foundation speaks of quiet confidence—stimulating curiosity about where this journey might venture next.