In Paris, a distinctive theme emerges at Chloé under the creative direction of Chemena Kamali, and it’s the blouse that stands out as her signature piece. These blouses, characterized by their billowy, ruffled design exuding ease and romance, encapsulated her third collection for the fashion house during Paris Fashion Week.
Kamali’s vision for Chloé draws from history without being bound by it, much like the women gracing the front rows – Jerry Hall and Georgia May Jagger, symbols of Chloé’s past and present allure. Known for its enduring commitment to championing women both in design philosophy and leadership, Chloé remains a bastion for female designers, who bring their nuanced perspectives to the fore. Kamali, a German-born talent, continues to refine her distinct vision through her contributions, aligning with this tradition.
This season, the focus was not merely on blouses but on their foundational role. Crafted from ivory and peach silk, these blouses featured prominent sleeves and substantial cuffs that added the gravitas of jackets. Meanwhile, wide-legged, low-slung trousers complemented with gold logo belts evoked a recognizable bohemian grace. The collection’s slip dresses, designed with a soft pastel palette and cut on the bias, walked the fine line between relaxed elegance and sensuality. Fur-trimmed quilted coats and heirloom-style Victorian jackets layered over deep Henley knits brought a harsher, more urban sensibility to the mix. The accessories aligned perfectly with their oversized, charm-adorned handbags and sturdy logo belts, creating an ornate counterpoint to the collection’s ethereal silhouettes.
Kamali expressed, “As I started working on this collection, I felt that moving forward is just as important as honoring the past.” Her focus lies in continually reinterpreting and evolving the Chloé woman’s state of mind. Set against a backdrop that was simple yet grand, with subtle lighting casting a glow over a muted green carpet, the display ensured the clothing remained the focal point.
While some may perceive an element of excess within the collection, Kamali perceives complexity as an inherent trait of the Chloé woman. “She embodies complexity and is not defined by a single identity,” Kamali explained. “She is multifaceted, emotionally charged, and rich with nuance.” Kamali is determined to propel Chloé forward while retaining its core ethos.
“Chloé embodies a unique balance of soft strength, blending natural femininity, sensuality, and lightness with independence and freedom,” she elaborated, emphasizing that the Chloé woman feels authentic, with resonating connections.
While the blouse might be central, Kamali’s collection also highlights the individuality of the women wearing them, going beyond mere fabric to articulate a vision of empowerment and identity.
