In Paris, the fashion spotlight was firmly on Doja Cat as she took her seat at Balmain’s fall show during Paris Fashion Week. Just days before, she had graced the Oscars donning a custom beaded Balmain gown. However, the runway collection presented by designer Olivier Rousteing moved away from red carpet extravagance towards a fresh kind of luxury highlighted by sculptural knitwear, fluid draping, and striking zebra patterns.
On Wednesday night, the event commenced with a characteristic tone set by Rousteing: a swooping hooded sweater paired imaginatively with a leather peplum and easy-fit leather trousers. The spotlight was on knitwear throughout, with draped mohair, wool jersey dresses, and enveloping sweaters instilling the collection with a laid-back vibe.
The palette embraced a monochrome theme, frequently interrupted by textures such as pleats, ruched tops, and embossed leathers to keep the look dynamic. Softness was artfully balanced by bold hardware, with a sprinkle of animalistic vigor. Accessories like chunky bracelets, talon earrings, and an eye-catching zebra pattern, combined with oversized coats and relaxed boots, underscored Balmain’s distinctive identity.
The footwear was another highlight, with sculpturally crafted pumps and boots in fuzzy textures or buttery leather adding a playful contrast to the collection’s palette of black, white, and vibrant citrus orange hues.
While this collection emphasized ease and a relaxed approach, it still resonated with Balmain’s signature aesthetic through its accessories. Rousteing’s innovative use of volume felt more like a fine-tuning of the brand’s style rather than a complete overhaul, reaffirming the notion that true luxury lies not in abundance but in the artful balance of allowing garments room to breathe.
