Julian Klausner unveiled his inaugural womenswear collection as the creative head of Dries Van Noten at the prestigious Opéra Garnier in Paris, capturing the essence of historical influences within his designs. This showcase was a significant event at Paris Fashion Week, signaling a new era for the Belgian fashion house after Dries Van Noten’s departure last year, who had led the brand for more than thirty years. Klausner, having contributed to the brand’s womenswear line since 2018, brought an intriguing mix of archival inspirations and fresh interpretations to his debut collection.
The collection prominently featured elements reminiscent of the 1930s, evident in the sloping shoulder lines and the vintage-styled headgear. Meanwhile, floral devoré draped gowns introduced a contemporary twist to timeless silhouettes. A standout piece was the metallic oversized suit, showcasing silent foulard motifs that echoed the Art Deco period, coupled with an Obu belt characterized by its textured banding, which added an Eastern-inspired luxurious touch. Throughout, Klausner adhered to the brand’s iconic approach of layering and textural contrasts, skillfully merging structured tailoring with more flowing elements.
However, the collection did not shy away from highlighting the complexities involved in a creative transition. For instance, a maximalist coat with exaggerated proportions made a bold visual statement, albeit at the risk of overshadowing the wearer. Some designs seemed to be in a state of exploration rather than completion, hinting that Klausner is in the process of fine-tuning his unique style while embracing the brand’s rich heritage. The collection continuously danced on the fine line between staying true to the established Dries Van Noten signatures and pushing the envelope into new territories.
Klausner’s deep-rooted understanding of the brand shines through. Dries Van Noten was celebrated for its surprising combinations and ever-evolving aesthetic, adapting with each passing season, and Klausner has expressed a strong commitment to continue this legacy. His debut ready-to-wear collection illustrates a thorough comprehension of the brand’s ethos, setting a promising foundation for future developments.
Based on this promising introduction into women’s fashion, Klausner appears to be a suitable successor to expand upon the rich legacy of Dries Van Noten.
