YONAGUNI, Japan — Nestled in Japan’s most westerly reaches, the island of Yonaguni offers a unique retreat with no chain convenience stores and natural wonders such as hammerhead sharks and grazing miniature horses. However, the serenity of this small island is juxtaposed with its strategic military significance.
The mountainous terrain that once symbolized untouched nature now hosts radar facilities. A southern cattle ranch has been converted into the Japanese Ground Self Defense Force’s Camp Yonaguni. Both Japan and the United States conduct joint military drills here, with further plans to establish a missile unit, and expand both the airport and the port facilities.
Growing military presence underscores Yonaguni’s position as a potential focal point in conflicts concerning Taiwan, which is self-governed but claimed by China. “As a child, I was so proud of this westernmost border island,” expressed Fumie Kano, an innkeeper on Yonaguni. “Now, we are often warned of danger, and it fills me with sadness.”
The island’s diminishing population, currently fewer than 1,500 residents, is feeling the impact of militarization. While some argue that the incoming servicemembers bolster the island’s safety and economy, opponents like Kano contend that the military developments harm the environment and could incite aggression.
Located just 110 kilometers (68 miles) from Taiwan, Yonaguni is ominously close to an area where China’s military activities have increased. This has prompted Japan to focus more on defense, realigning its military posture towards the southwest and increasing its defense budget.
Missiles and defense units, including PAC-3 interceptors, have been installed on Yonaguni and neighboring islands such as Ishigaki and Miyako. With plans to deploy more missiles, possibly long-range ones, unease has grown among residents, even those who originally supported military presence.
Kano recalls ambitious plans for economic and environmental collaboration with Taiwan, such as direct ferry services, which were overshadowed by the island’s military hosting plans. Divisive opinions on these changes have fragmented the small community, resulting in a 2015 referendum approving the hosting of Japanese troops.
Since then, an array of military personnel and their families have settled on the island, accounting for a significant portion of its population. Their presence supports the local economy, which is now heavily reliant on the military.
Local potter Kyoko Yamaguchi expresses concerns about the rapid buildup, stating that initiatives are often justified as part of a ‘Taiwan emergency’. A recent accident involving a Japanese army aircraft participating in a joint exercise with the U.S. accentuated these worries.
Japan’s military efforts in the Okinawa region play a crucial role in defending its southeastern airspace and waters. The Southwestern Air Defense Force, based in Naha, responds to numerous potential threats, primarily from China.
Admiral Takuhiro Hiragi, commander of Fleet Air Wing 5, emphasizes the importance of swift and thorough surveillance, explaining the group’s mission to monitor key sea lanes and Chinese military maneuvers near Taiwan and Yonaguni. Recent violations of Japanese airspace and territorial waters by Chinese forces have heightened Japan’s vigilance.
This growing military activity concerns local citizens, particularly fisherfolk who regularly encounter Chinese vessels. In 2022, an exercise involving China’s ballistic missiles landed near Yonaguni, creating disruptions in local fishing operations.
The shadow of potential conflict with Taiwan stirs memories of Okinawa’s wartime struggles, where the Battle of Okinawa resulted in massive civilian casualties. Residents fear the transformation of their picturesque island into a battleground.
Mayor Kenichi Itokazu advocates for further military presence, arguing it is essential for preparedness. Plans for evacuation, however, expose logistical challenges, sparking skepticism about their feasibility.
Kano dismisses these evacuation strategies as impractical, suggesting instead that resources should seek to cultivate peace on the island, rather than focusing on militarization.
