Gucci made a significant announcement on Thursday regarding a leadership change in its creative direction. Sabato De Sarno, who has been at the helm for less than two years, will be stepping down from his role just weeks before the anticipated runway show. The upcoming collection, set to debut during Milan Fashion Week on February 25, will now be handled by the existing design team. The brand stated that further details regarding De Sarno’s successor will be disclosed “in due time.”
Stefano Cantino, Gucci’s new CEO, voiced appreciation for De Sarno’s emphasis on the brand’s craftsmanship and rich heritage. Meanwhile, Francesca Bellettini, deputy CEO of Kering, noted that De Sarno had effectively strengthened Gucci’s foundational attributes.
At the age of 42, De Sarno took the reins of the renowned Italian fashion brand two years back, following the unexpected exit of Alessandro Michele. Michele had a substantial impact on brand sales and contributed positively to Kering’s financial performance with his innovative, gender-neutral, and romantic collections that transformed Gucci’s image.
During De Sarno’s leadership, the brand shifted toward more minimalist designs and essential wardrobe staples aimed at appealing to a broader audience. However, this approach has not resonated well in terms of sales, as Kering reported a 15% decline in third-quarter revenue to €3.8 billion, with Gucci experiencing a significant 26% drop in revenue to €1.6 billion. The complete annual financial results for Kering are expected to be released next week.
Gucci, originally established over a century ago in Florence as a luggage and leather goods manufacturer, has a legacy that has allowed various creative leads considerable freedom in interpreting the brand’s essence. This legacy began with Tom Ford’s bold and sexy designs in the 1990s.
This isn’t the first instance of Gucci experiencing a notable shift in creative direction at a crucial time. Frida Giannini’s exit was announced in January 2015, coinciding with the fashion crowd’s arrival for the menswear collection preview. The team, now led by Michele, managed to pull together a new collection in just five days, introducing striking pieces like the men’s pussy bow blouse, which set the stage for a fresh and diverse vision for the brand.
De Sarno previously served as the fashion director at Valentino, where he managed both men’s and women’s lines. Meanwhile, Michele is currently influencing the creative direction at the Rome-based Valentino.
This announcement aligns with a series of recent changes among prominent fashion houses, including the recent departure of Kim Jones as the creative director for Dior’s menswear collections.