PARIS — The debut of Alessandro Michele’s couture collection for Valentino was one of the most awaited events of the Paris Couture Week, and he certainly delivered an extravagant performance at the Palais Brongniart. This historic venue perfectly complemented his narrative that intertwines the past and present.
Michele, celebrated for his opulent “more is more” style, showcased a fashion show on Wednesday that was filled with celebrities and made a strong statement of historical homage and theatrical flair, crafted with his distinctive, unconventional touches.
Before joining Valentino, Michele spent nearly eight years transforming Gucci, infusing the brand with his eclectic, gender-fluid maximalism. His fascination with history, rooted deeply in his childhood experiences of exploring his mother’s wardrobe in Rome, has consistently influenced his work.
Under Michele’s guidance, Gucci blossomed into a nexus of layered nostalgia and unique opulence, marking his transition to Valentino — a label synonymous with aristocratic refinement — both as a natural progression and a daunting challenge.
His appointment brought a dramatic shift from the artistry of Valentino’s previous designer, Pierpaolo Piccioli, who was known for his elegant, minimalist designs that celebrated romance.
The opening look of the show set a grand precedent: a harlequin-patterned dress of grand scale that cleverly blended elements of circus whimsy with regal elegance. Voluminous skirts that evoked 18th-century luxury floated elegantly against a stark black runway, while ruffles reminiscent of the ’70s added a vintage charm typical of Michele’s style. A particularly noteworthy floral gown, reminiscent of Marie Antoinette, embraced the New Romantics aesthetic, paying tribute to the late ‘70s and early ’80s — an era that has captivated the designer for years.
While the collection largely highlighted Michele’s strengths, demonstrating an exuberance that was nonetheless finely crafted with couture precision, certain elements appeared overly extravagant. For instance, a polka dot jacket adorned with a large bow crossed into a realm of excessive cuteness, showcasing how his love for embellishment can sometimes lean toward the overwhelming. Nonetheless, the overall composition maintained an air of refinement, marking a shift towards more restrained elegance compared to his previous endeavors at Gucci.
The show also featured a wide array of models from various age groups and backgrounds, reinforcing Valentino’s commitment to inclusivity, a key principle that was central to Piccioli’s leadership and continues under Michele’s creative vision.
Michele’s debut in the couture arena reaffirmed his standing as a designer who seeks to uncover beauty through historical exploration, bringing a fresh yet nostalgic approach to the world of high fashion.
