PARIS — Paris Couture Week kicked off in grand style at the Petit Palais with Schiaparelli’s stunning showcase named “Icarus.” Golden talismans, designed to resemble radiant suns, adorned the runway, linking back to the mythology of Icarus, the boy who soared too close to the sun in his quest for greatness.
The collection explored themes of ambition and the audacity to defy established couture conventions while managing to rise above any potential missteps. Unlike the mythological figure, this collection represented triumph rather than a fall, celebrating boldness and innovation.
Among the attendees were notable figures such as Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Marisa Berenson, and Kelly Rutherford, who observed as models like Kendall Jenner glided down the runway in a manner reminiscent of the elegant pacing typical of classic couture presentations.
This ambiance was complemented by a soundtrack that melded romantic tunes with George Michael’s “Father Figure,” creating a blend of traditional and modern influences. This duality resonated throughout the collection, which fused traditional couture craftsmanship with striking avant-garde elements.
Designer Daniel Roseberry’s interpretation of “Icarus” redefined classic couture aesthetics, infusing them with a daring spirit. Drawing inspiration from vintage ribbons, he transformed soft shades such as butter, saffron, and “toast” brown into bold, baroque silhouettes that challenged conventional expectations.
Feather details, typically light and airy, were sculpted into dynamic forms, while embroidered corsets that historically embodied class and restraint featured playful rosettes fashioned from resin, bridging industrial design with high fashion. This audacity invited reflection on the often-serious narrative that surrounds couture.
Highlight pieces included a stunning lace bustier gown paired with an absinthe green bow-front skirt, and striking sculpted hips added an architectural allure to the flowing silhouettes. Those familiar with Rosebery’s previous theatrical work may appreciate his focus on craftsmanship present in this collection.
A harmonious balance between practicality and whimsicality was notably achieved in “Icarus,” marking a significant shift in the evolution of couture.
The underlying theme of this collection was the dual nature of ambition — the pursuit of greatness paired with the risks that come along with it. The gold talismans on the runway, featuring visible cracks in their surfaces, symbolized the sun’s role in Icarus’s downfall, serving as a metaphor for the fashion industry’s unending quest for flawless design.
This concept simultaneously paid tribute to the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli, a daring innovator who reshaped fashion norms. Known for her collaborations with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí, she created memorable pieces such as the lobster dress — an outstanding blend of high fashion, whimsy, and subversion that questioned the seriousness of couture.
Roseberry’s experimental approach resonated with Schiaparelli’s legacy, emphasizing the art of fashion as a commentary on societal norms. As attendees absorbed the show, they noted the restraint in the theatrics, which contrasted sharply with more sensational moments from previous seasons, such as do-it-yourself spectacle pieces or memorable celebrity appearances.
This refined approach allowed the designs themselves to stand at the forefront, leading one guest to reflect, “Previous seasons were pure spectacle — this felt more focused.”
In discussing the essence of haute couture, Roseberry articulated the pursuit for perfection: “Haute couture is by definition a quest for perfection. It offers an escape from our complex reality, reminding us that perfection carries a cost.” He further explained his desire to fuse nostalgia with innovation, aiming for the audience to feel as though the collection hinted at a bygone era.
Addressing the overarching theme, he remarked, “Icarus embraces ambition — it’s creative, bold, and risky. It reflects how far we can push boundaries while remaining true to ourselves.”
