PARIS — Within the historic setting of the Ecole Militaire, under the watchful gaze of the Eiffel Tower, a high-profile audience gathered for the Dior Men’s showcase during Paris Fashion Week. Among the attendees were legendary supermodel Kate Moss and actor Robert Pattinson, marking a notable shift in direction for designer Kim Jones. This season, known for his gender-inclusive designs, Jones opted for a more defined and traditional masculine style.
The runway was framed by a sleek, white staircase that exuded a clean, ethereal aesthetic, mirroring the collection’s minimalist and angular designs. Much of Jones’ inspiration stemmed from the mid-century roots of the Dior brand, particularly reflecting on Christian Dior’s famous “Ligne H.” Originally crafted to streamline women’s fashion in the post-war era, Jones reinterpreted this concept into crisp, structured silhouettes tailored for men.
The front row was as dazzling as the show itself, with Kate Moss radiating her iconic presence, capturing the attention of onlookers and photographers alike. Robert Pattinson added to the allure with his signature brooding appeal, while fellow celebrities like Louis Garrel, Nam Joo-hyuk, and J Balvin contributed their star power. The imposing figure of Gwendoline Christie drew considerable admiration, additionally highlighting the global influence of Dior with the presence of up-and-coming talents like Apo Nattawin and Mile Phakphum.
Jones presented a collection that harmonized precision with luxury. A standout piece was a sleek black leather bomber jacket, showcasing a disciplined sophistication that underscored the overall theme. Tailored opera capes took cues from women’s couture archives but were rendered with a bold new sharpness. Adding a playful yet refined touch to the collection were polished leather boots embellished with satin bows, affectionately referred to as “bow caps.” The show concluded with a stunning pink robe, inspired by Dior’s 1948 Pondichery haute couture piece, intricately embroidered to create a radiant effect. Hybrid sneakers featuring elements from Dior’s 1961 collection introduced a youthful flair to the lineup.
At the heart of Jones’ designs was a theme of transformation, reflecting on the evolution of menswear from the opulence of the 18th century to the functionality of the 19th. The collection featured angular tailoring softened by delicate satin bows, with glass-bead embroidery evoking the feel of gentle raindrops, all illustrating the duality that has become synonymous with Jones’ design philosophy.
The atmosphere in the front row buzzed with discussion about the new direction taken by Jones. Observers noted a distinctly sharper and more grounded tone, contrasting with the fluidity of his previous work. Speculation swirled regarding whether this artistic pivot stemmed from Jones’ own vision or from influences exerted by Dior’s leadership. Regardless of the influences, Jones succeeded in merging artistic expression with wearability, creating a robust collection.
In his own words, Jones reflected, “Mr. Dior’s Ligne H was in our heads even before going into the archive this season. It contains graphic and angular elements that felt seamlessly suitable for menswear. While the collection draws from the history of fashion, it remains contemporary. We sought to create a dialogue about the present.”
Jones’ ability to adapt Dior’s rich heritage for today’s audience is often celebrated, though some critics worry that leaning too heavily on archival references might hinder bold innovation. In this latest collection, however, he confidently navigated a balance, updating Ligne H’s angular lines with precision and purpose. Still, the shift towards a more traditionally masculine style could prompt questions about whether this reflects Jones’ innate creativity or a response to external pressures to align Dior Men with more commercially appealing styles.
