During Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, Miuccia Prada and her co-creative director, Raf Simons, presented their latest menswear collaboration, which they characterized as both raw and cinematic.
The runway for the Milan Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collection showcased an array of faux fur collars, but Prada took it a step further by incorporating primitive elements in shearling that appeared almost as if they had been torn straight from the animal. This unique material was placed at angles on the lapels of outerwear and was also patchworked into various garments.
“Our intention was perhaps to convey a sense of savagery and primitive caveman aesthetics. We aimed to evoke warmth and humanity, while also capturing a beautifully domestic quality,” Simons shared while speaking backstage.
A variety of cinematic influences imbued the collection, although not tied to any specific film, director, or character type. Infusions of Western style featured distressed cowboy boots and knitwear designed to resemble a wrangler’s shirt, deliberately avoiding caricature.
The collection also embraced feminine accents, encouraging men to accessorize with jewelry such as bracelets adorned with mini basketballs or baseballs. Chains bearing amulets were draped from fine knits, and floral designs adorned fake fur-lined hoods.
Silhouettes in the collection combined tight-fitting trousers, often in vibrant rock-and-roll satin, with looser pieces like pajama tops or slightly distressed sweaters. In a nod to instinctive dressing, suits were styled without shirts.
One standout look captured the youthful essence of the collection: Straight leg jeans paired with a knit top featuring striped accents, complemented by floral-printed cowboy boots.
The designers expressed that the collection was designed to instill hope amid adversity, suggesting that embracing one’s humanity can serve as a form of resistance against oppression.
“This collection is a response to the current climate. We must persist through our instincts, our humanity, our passion, and our romance,” Prada conveyed backstage. She emphasized that quality work also represents a form of resistance.
“The underlying message of the collection must inherently be optimistic,” Prada remarked.
The runway setting transformed the Prada Foundation’s Deposito contemporary art space into a world adorned in Art Nouveau carpeting, with a walkway elevated on metal scaffolding that symbolized contrasts, ornamental motifs, and a concept of a work-in-progress according to Simons.
On the trend front, shirtless suits emerged as a statement. The idea of layering puffers gained traction, while raw shearling collars called forth instincts from earlier times. Subtle jewelry and floral designs for men, along with cowboy boots, also took center stage.
The front row of the event attracted a diverse gathering from various fields, including British actor and musician William Gao who arrived alongside British musician Olivia Hardy, U.S. actor Keith Powers, South Korean actress Kim Tae-ri, Chinese table tennis player Ma Long, and British actor Louis Patridge. Meanwhile, a throng of fans eagerly awaited just beyond the barriers, cheering enthusiastically for the stars.
