BAN NAM KHEM, Thailand — On the infamous morning of December 26, 2004, Neungduangjai Sritrakarn, a 20-year-old freshman, was still asleep in her home along the Andaman Sea coast when her mother sensed a looming danger and urged her to wake up. What followed was a day that would remain etched in her mind forever; it marked the catastrophic Indian Ocean tsunami triggered by a massive 9.1 magnitude earthquake off the coast of Indonesia’s Sumatra island.
This disaster is regarded as one of the most devastating natural calamities in recent history. Neungduangjai’s mother noticed an unusual formation of whitecaps on the ocean, and shortly after, a relative returned from fishing to deliver a warning. Without wasting a moment, the family gathered their essential documents and leapt onto their motorbikes, fleeing their village of Ban Nam Khem.
As they sped away from their home, Neungduangjai glanced back and saw a towering wall of water approaching the shore. In shock, she witnessed the sheer power of nature as the water surged closer, yet they managed to get approximately 3 kilometers (1.8 miles) away before the tsunami struck, sending them tumbling from their bikes. The dark surge engulfed everything in its path, sweeping away both manmade structures and natural debris.
Neungduangjai struggled to regain her footing, with the turbulent waters lapping up to her knees. At that moment, she was unaware that the tsunami would eventually devastate a dozen countries, resulting in roughly 230,000 fatalities—about one-third occurring in Indonesia. Millions were displaced, particularly in the countries hardest hit: Indonesia, Sri Lanka, India, and Thailand.
In Thailand’s Phang Nga province, at least 5,400 lives were claimed, with approximately 3,000 individuals still unaccounted for today, according to domestic reports. The shrimp farm where Neungduangjai and her family worked was completely obliterated, but in the wake of the disaster, she has turned her life around. They rebuilt and now operate a vibrant bar and restaurant that boasts a lovely view of the sea—a view that serves as a poignant reminder of both loss and renewal.
Life in Phang Nga has gradually been restored, and tourists have returned, giving the area a renewed vibrancy. Neungduangjai, who had been in Bangkok for her studies, returned home for the New Year break only to find her family had survived, although they mourned the loss of five relatives, including her grandparents. One uncle, sadly, was never found, leaving a profound void in their lives.
Upon returning after a week with relatives, the lingering scent of death overwhelmed her, and the village she once knew felt entirely alien. “There were bodies everywhere,” she recounted, struggling to make sense of the transformations wrought by the disaster. “I couldn’t recognize a single thing. Everything was different.”
Despite the visible recovery today, subtle memorials and tsunami evacuation notices remind residents of that tragic day. Sanya Kongma, the assistant to the village chief of Ban Nam Khem, underscored how far they have come since the disaster, highlighting improved living conditions. Yet, the echoes of that fateful day remain, with anxiety resurfacing whenever news of earthquakes emerges.
Yearly tsunami evacuation drills are conducted, yet for some, including survivors like Somneuk Chuaykerd, these drills can ignite painful memories. Somneuk lost one of her young sons while fishing at sea and still resides in the same location, with the ocean in her backyard. Each siren during drills sends her into a panic, and she finds it challenging to prepare for an emergency despite her efforts to stay ready.
For Neungduangjai, the waves she once feared are now part of her everyday life. Even after completing college, she decided to return home, where she opened her bar and restaurant. “I’m still scared, but I have to live with it because it’s my home,” she stated defiantly. Some residents chose to relocate to escape their fears, but Neungduangjai remains committed to her roots—an inspiring illustration of resilience and hope amidst lingering trauma.