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Berlin is once again filled with the delightful scents of mulled wine, roasted almonds, and sizzling bratwurst as the city welcomes over 100 Christmas markets this week. This cherished tradition, which has been a staple in German culture since the Middle Ages and has made its way into numerous Western nations, now reflects a greater diversity, especially in Berlin.
This vibrant city, home to approximately 3.8 million residents, prides itself on its inclusivity and multiculturalism, which is evident in the variety of Christmas markets it presents. With nearly 40% of the population having immigrant backgrounds and a significant LGBTQ+ community, Berlin caters to a broad spectrum of preferences during the festive season.
Among the various markets are those focused on LGBTQ+ themes, featuring dishes like rainbow pierogi and entertainment by drag performers, as well as Scandinavian stalls offering moose goulash and reindeer salami. Some markets even present cheeky gift options, alongside traditional setups that immerse visitors in a medieval atmosphere.
“It’s a wonderful vibe,” said Paul Middleton about the Christmas Avenue market, which radiates with the rainbow colors. “This is great recognition for the LGBTQ+ community, providing a positive and secure environment where everyone can feel welcome, regardless of their background.” Middleton, who relocated from London to Berlin three years ago, humorously mentions that he’s selling festive shirts adorned with LGBTQ+ themes alongside eye-catching candles and soaps.
The appeal of this market stretches beyond the LGBTQ+ crowd, attracting couples, neighborhood families, and even groups of mothers navigating with strollers, according to spokesman Sebastian Ahlefeld. Marco Klingberg, who visited the market with friends on a Monday evening, expressed that it offers a space to connect with others, savor mulled wine, and officially kick off the festive season.
Klingberg, a police officer involved with the LGBTQ+ police organization from Brandenburg, highlighted that while Berlin is known for its welcoming atmosphere, safety remains a priority due to incidents of violence against the community. “Having a designated safe space is crucial,” he stated.
Security is a significant focus across all markets, including the popular LGBTQ+ venue where visitors undergo bag checks upon entry. Police presence was noted at many of the markets, particularly as the chilling memory of a tragic terror incident during a Christmas market in 2016 lingers in the minds of Berliners.
On December 19, 2016, a truck driven by an Islamist attacker rammed into a crowd at a Christmas market, resulting in 13 fatalities and numerous injuries. The suspect was killed in Italy days later, but the event has left a lasting impact that prompts heightened security measures.
At the Scandinavian-themed Lucia market located in the Prenzlauer Berg district, visitors enjoyed festive gatherings at a former brewery site. Children laughed on merry-go-rounds while their parents lined up for treats like Finnish honey and Icelandic mulled wine with liquor, warming themselves by fire pits.
Mathilda Schmidt, 21, reminisced, “I’ve been attending this market every year since I was little.” As she waited with her boyfriend for bratwurst and potato pancakes, she observed children gleefully bouncing on trampolines.
At the Humboldt Forum Christmas market near the Spree River, attendees can indulge in a diverse array of international cuisine, like jerk chicken with cooked bananas, Argentinian empanadas, French salamis, and Hungarian langos—a deep-fried flatbread.
While larger markets remain open throughout the holiday season, often closing just before Christmas Eve, smaller markets tend to operate for shorter durations. One such market, the Kinky Christmas market in Kreuzberg, will open for a single day on December 1, attracting attendees who prefer a more unconventional festive experience. With over 20 stalls featuring “fashion, accessories, jewelry, toys, and a variety of playful gift ideas,” it promises a unique twist on the traditional market atmosphere.
As residents of Berlin relish the diverse offerings of the Christmas markets, they share a common grievance regarding the rising prices of mulled wine, with a small cup now costing up to seven euros (approximately $7.36).
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