PARIS — Following the devastating fire at Notre Dame cathedral in April 2019, French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac felt a strong urge to respond in a meaningful way. Upon returning to his home, he began to sketch ideas that revolved around the monument’s reconstruction. When the Paris Archbishop’s representative approached him about designing liturgical garments for the cathedral’s upcoming reopening next month, Castelbajac—who has personal ties to the church—saw this as a serendipitous moment.
“It’s bigger than just a job. There’s a mysterious aspect to it,” he expressed, his eyes shining with excitement as he showcased a selection of some 2,000 vibrant pieces meant for 700 participants from his Paris residence. “It feels like a calling. Being approached in this way feels like a significant moment.”
His “duty” led to a distinct collection created in partnership with the highly regarded artisans from 19M studio. The garments, crafted primarily from thick off-white Scottish wool gabardine, merge his distinctive pop-art style with a deep respect for the centuries-old traditions of the cathedral, integrating medieval elements into the design.
These unconventional garments are not only modern but also startlingly minimalist, departing significantly from the ornate styles long associated with the cathedral’s nearly 900-year history. They feature a large gold cross at their core, complemented by vibrant pieces of color-blocked red, blue, yellow, and green velvet reminiscent of debris fragments.
“It’s a representation of something that has disintegrated and is now reconstructing itself,” Castelbajac reflected, drawing a parallel between the vibrant shards coming together and the anticipated rebirth of the cathedral.
This commission for the liturgical garments was not open to the public; rather, Castelbajac was specifically chosen by the church’s leaders thanks to his prior history with similar projects. In 1997, he designed the colorful robes that Pope John Paul II wore during World Youth Day in Paris, which later became a cherished relic in Notre Dame’s treasury. The connection he felt to the cathedral during the fire held profound meaning for him.
“The whole time I was watching the flames, my thoughts were about the relics—wondering if they were safe,” he shared, indicating that his attachment was far more than just material; it was deeply spiritual.
At 74, Castelbajac continues to feel the emotions tied to the heart-wrenching scene he witnessed in 2019, recalling how he and his wife stood among people praying fervently. “It was more than just a burning building; it felt like hope and spirituality were aflame. It was such a poignant moment. I kept thinking about what I could contribute to this situation.”
The vestments he has designed are made for permanent liturgical use, which Castelbajac emphasizes will last “forever.” They represent a continuation of his past work, reflecting a variation of the papal robes infused with his signature bright and cheerful color palette.
His fascination with vibrant colors began in his childhood at a military boarding school in Normandy, which he described as a bleak and isolating environment. “It was completely devoid of color,” he recalled.
For young Castelbajac, bright hues became a means of survival. “Color was my lifeline, my teddy bear in a challenging world. The stained glass in the church and the heraldry on display each day filled that world with lively primary colors,” he noted, describing how this passion shaped his future career.
Over the years, his colorful creations have attracted attention in the fashion industry, earning him a reputation as an innovator. Castelbajac’s designs have adorned pop culture icons like Madonna, Beyoncé, and Rihanna. He has also collaborated with renowned artists like Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, and Jean-Michel Basquiat, blending art and fashion into a celebration of exuberance.
However, his recent endeavor for Notre Dame carries a unique and personal significance. Although his playful designs might surprise some traditional Catholics, he feels a strong trust from the cathedral’s leadership. “I think they have faith in me,” he reflected, noting the creative freedom he was granted for this project.
The final result is a contemporary body of work that resonates with the themes of unity, hope, and renewal emblematic of Notre Dame—much like the rooster atop the newly reconstructed spire that shines with a fiery glow.
As the cathedral prepares to reopen during the weekend of December 7-8, Castelbajac hopes his vestments will symbolize a testament to renewal and illustrate the “power of color” to promote healing and inspiration.