Alessandro Michele made his eagerly anticipated ready-to-wear Paris Fashion Week debut at Valentino, showcasing a transformative collection in a setting that suggested renewal and evolution. The presentation took place in a living room scenario in a state of flux, with stools, ladders, and lamps draped in white blankets, alluding to a house undergoing renovation and symbolizing a deliberate revival of past grandeur. This poetic and subdued ambiance perfectly reflected the “maximalist-lite” spectacle that combined historical influences with Michele’s distinct style.
Simultaneously, at the École des Beaux Arts overlooking the Seine, Sean McGirr’s second ready-to-wear show for Alexander McQueen exuded a sense of relief and a fresh start. Moving from an industrial warehouse to this iconic venue marked a new chapter for McGirr, whose initial debut received mixed reviews. With more time to prepare, McGirr appeared more confident, although traces of his simplistic approach remained evident.
During the spring-summer 2025 ready-to-wear shows, highlights included Michele’s debut at Valentino, which featured haunting music and a drumbeat setting an atmosphere charged with drama. The collection showcased Michele’s recognizable style with a new evolution, offering a vintage feel with feathers, lingerie details, and eclectic combinations of flowers and sparkles. Familiar Valentino elements were reinvented under Michele’s vision, such as the nipped-waist dress and iconic red tones, reflecting a modern and softer take on luxury.
Actors like Jared Leto were among the VIPs in attendance, highlighting Michele’s continued appeal to Hollywood’s elite. With a similar eccentric aesthetic to his Gucci days, Michele infused a couture sensibility into Valentino, prioritizing his personal vision over traditional codes, as seen in this daring show.
On the other hand, Sean McGirr’s sophomore collection for Alexander McQueen drew inspiration from the label’s dark romantic past, presenting a blend of Gothic allure with precise tailoring. While some creations felt overly simplistic, McGirr excelled in eveningwear, showcasing shimmering embroideries and distressed silks that captured red carpet glamour. A standout piece, an extravagant gown adorned with intricate silver chains, mesmerized the audience with its opulence.
Akris’ Sunday collection focused on utilitarian minimalism, a signature of designer Albert Kriemler’s craftsmanship. The show highlighted luxurious subtleties with expertly crafted trench coats and clean-cut silhouettes that exuded quiet sophistication and functional luxury. Kriemler’s commitment to timeless appeal and quality craftsmanship shone through in his minimalist designs, which celebrated the understated elegance that defines the Akris brand.