Nicolas Di Felice, showcased a futuristic collection for Courrèges during Paris Fashion Week, transporting the audience into a space-age world. The signature minimalism of Di Felice was evident in the trapeze silhouette dresses featuring unique slits and geometric halter necks, creating a rebellious yet sophisticated look. The collection paid homage to André Courrèges’ ’60s Space Age style with nods to his legacy in nipped gowns and exposed midriffs reimagined with a modern twist. Di Felice’s ability to merge sensuality with technical precision elevated the collection, staying true to his subtly provocative Parisian chic style without following trends like “naked dressing.”
Dries Van Noten, in its first collection after the departure of the eponymous designer, juxtaposed innovation with heritage on the runway. The show blended historical references with futuristic silhouettes, creating a familiar yet fresh aesthetic. Pieces like an 18th-century-inspired soldier’s coat and trench coats with a modern twist showcased the brand’s unique style over its 40-year legacy. While the collection received praise for its elegance, there were critiques about a potential imbalance between spectacle and subtlety, where the presentation overshadowed the garments themselves.
Julien Dossena presented a paradoxical collection for Paco Rabanne, with model Gigi Hadid leading the show in a blue pastel-striped ensemble. The collection featured oversized jackets for a powerful statement and the brand’s signature chain mail dresses for a touch of nostalgia. However, there were missteps like a clunky gold gown and an ill-conceived striped blue dress that veered towards impracticality, a common critique in Dossena’s avant-garde designs. Despite the flaws, standout pieces like an oversized tuxedo with shimmering lapels showcased Dossena’s talent in blending surrealism with wearable fashion, earning praise for his innovative approach even in his most experimental moments.