In Berlin’s Mitte neighborhood, at Kebap With Attitude, beef and chicken are expertly carved off vertical spits and nestled into pita bread alongside fresh tomatoes, cabbage, and red onions in the cherished dish known as döner kebab. This traditional Turkish street food has become a staple across Germany and Europe, with annual sales soaring to billions of euros, as per the Association of Turkish Döner Producers in Europe.
The European Commission is currently reviewing Turkey’s request to regulate the specifics of what can be labeled as a döner kebab, a move that could have significant implications for the industry. Turkey’s proposal includes strict criteria for the marination and slicing of meat, potentially restricting variations like veggie or veal kebabs that have gained popularity in Germany.
Germany’s Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture has raised objections to Turkey’s proposal, emphasizing the need to preserve the diverse preparations of döner kebab that reflect the country’s culinary landscape. Politicians, including federal food and agriculture minister Cem Özdemir, have voiced concerns about Ankara imposing guidelines on a beloved German food culture.
Despite the uncertainty surrounding potential regulations, some, like Deniz Buchholz of Kebap With Attitude, remain undaunted, suggesting that Berlin’s inventive spirit will find ways to adapt, such as renaming options like a “veggie sandwich” if necessary.
The debate over döner kebab has even reached the political arena, with the Left party urging for price breaks to alleviate rising costs, attributed in part to global events such as Russia’s actions in Ukraine. German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier’s recent “döner diplomacy” trip to Turkey further underscores the significance of this humble dish in diplomatic relations.
While the outcome of the European Commission’s decision remains pending, the German Hotel and Restaurant Association has emphasized the importance of preserving the diversity of döner kebab preparations and safeguarding the freedom of culinary expression within the industry.