ASHBOURNE, England — In the heart of the English countryside, a unique and ancient form of football unfolds yearly in the small town of Ashbourne. This event, known as Royal Shrovetide, resembles more a lively gathering than the structured sport many associate with football. Thousands gather for this two-day spectacle that some might confuse with chaos.
Royal Shrovetide is an age-old ball game held in Ashbourne, Derbyshire, which starkly contrasts traditional soccer and other games. The best way to describe it might be as a tug of war without the rope, as expressed by Natalie Wakefield, a local and past marshal of the event. “It’s mad in the best possible way,” she remarks.
The game sees two massive teams striving to score by moving the ball to their respective goals, which can be miles apart, across terrain ranging from rivers to city streets. While rules are few, the prohibition against murder has been upheld since the game was first documented in the 1600s. Successful participants are often known for being tough and assertive, a trait highlighted by Mark Harrison, whose family lineage boasts several scorers since 1986.
Harrison, who ceased playing seven years ago, now caters to spectators with food from his truck. A one-time host of Prince Charles, Harrison cherishes memories of the royal approval given to the game. Held over Shrove Tuesday and Ash Wednesday, the event is a pillar of local pride, traditionally dividing Ashbourne’s population into the Up’ards and the Down’ards, demarcated by their birth location relative to the River Henmore.
On regular days, Ashbourne presents the charm of a serene village, adorned with antique stores and quaint cafes. However, during Royal Shrovetide, shop owners safeguard their properties with substantial wooden barriers as the town prepares for a festive invasion.
The celebration kicks off in a local car park with a ceremonious launch entailing the national anthem and “Auld Lang Syne.” Competitors acknowledge that participation is at their own risk, and the play begins as a painted leather ball is flung into a “hug” of players. As the game gets underway, onlookers struggle to catch a glimpse amid the pandemonium.
Spectators perch on whatever height they can find, scanning for any sight of the ball through the narrow alleyways. Often, the ball’s whereabouts remain a mystery, and in some cases, it remains invisible for extended durations, such as a two-hour interval before an elusive goal led the Down’ards to victory.
The large horde efficiently maneuvers the ball when broken from the hug, using speed and agility to navigate Ashbourne’s landscape. Royal Shrovetide is as much a test of strategic cunning as it is a display of force and speed.
A famous play in 2019 involved players cleverly misdirecting the hug before one broke away encumbered to score. Goals are secured by striking a millstone three times at either end of town. For scorers, achieving a goal is akin to winning at prestigious sports events. They are celebrated through the streets and become local legends.
The historical significance and community spirit of Royal Shrovetide captivate attendees year after year. Janet Richardson, a lifelong observer at 75, gushes about the continued enthusiasm surrounding the event. For Ashbourne, this spectacle is not just a game but a treasured tradition woven into the town’s very fabric.
