NEW YORK — Thom Browne is known for his imaginative fashion show concepts, and his fall/winter 2025 collection continued this trend brilliantly. On Tuesday, he transformed a dimly lit theater in Manhattan into an enchanting setting, featuring 2,000 elegant white origami birds, many delicately suspended above the runway, as he concluded New York Fashion Week.
Accompanied by a soundscape of bird calls, recitations from Emily Dickinson’s poem “Hope is the Thing with Feathers,” and compositions that echoed avian themes, Browne showcased an array of his signature tailored suits, coats, and jackets. Many of these pieces were embellished with vividly colored birds that gracefully sprawled across the garments, adding to the stunning visual presentation.
The front row was a star-studded affair, with Oscar nominee Adrien Brody seated alongside Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue. Acclaimed actors Morgan Spector and Rebecca Hall were also spotted together in prominent seats, joined by fashion model Cara Delevingne, musician St. Vincent, and actors Cristin Milioti, Alessandro Nivola, and Cole Escola.
Browne is renowned for putting great thought into his runway narratives, often extending their duration to two or three times that of a typical show, weaving a complete tale through fashion. This particular narrative revolved around two caged lovebirds, confined within a white birdcage, who yearn for freedom. According to production notes, they muse about how “marvelous it would be to be exactly who we wish to be.”
The show opened with two “ornithologists” dressed in gray Thom Browne “uniforms,” observing from a desk near the lovebirds’ cage, before the models took to the runway. These models sported feathered eyelashes in bright colors, showcasing ensembles crafted from checks, tweeds, plaids, argyle knits, and flannels. Browne’s trademark deconstructed and exaggerated styles exemplified his creativity in tailoring and silhouette design, with the collection boasting a total of 64 distinct looks.
Included in the array were whimsical dresses, layered petticoats, and a voluminous ball gown. The most playful features came from colorful bird motifs, artistically stitched in satin or embroidered with gold bullion, adorning various pieces of the collection. Additionally, a collegiate-inspired element was present in the form of a brown varsity jacket sporting the number “65,” a nod to Browne’s birth year.
As ever, the runway displayed eye-catching handbags, including Browne’s beloved Hector bag, inspired by his own pet dog.
During his New York shows in February, Browne traditionally concludes the event by gifting a Valentine’s Day present to his partner, Andrew Bolton, who is the curator at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This time, adhering to the monochrome origami theme, Browne delighted guests by presenting a bouquet of white flowers as his gesture of affection.
