Leavenworth, Washington, is bustling with holiday cheer, where the aroma of bratwurst and pretzels fills the air, and horses trot down the main street pulling carriages filled with excited tourists. A baby, nestled comfortably in her mother’s arms, stretches out to touch a shop window, captivated by the sequin-covered reindeer and twinkling ornaments on display.

Once a struggling community on the eastern slopes of the Cascade Mountains, Leavenworth has transformed from a nearly abandoned town into the Christmas capital of the Pacific Northwest. The town suffered significantly when its mines and sawmill shut down, and when even the railroad departed, it was left with few options. In the 1960s, local business owners took a bold step; with no assistance from state or federal sources, they started borrowing money to renovate their downtown in the theme of a Bavarian village.

Now, several decades later, this transformation has paid off, drawing in tourists all year round. The town is a haven for hikers, skiers, river rafters, and shoppers alike, hosting around 3 million visitors last year, based on reports from Matt Cade, president of the Greater Leavenworth Museum. However, the surge in tourism has led to some challenges, particularly concerning the cost of living. Efforts are ongoing to facilitate affordable housing options for workers in the tourism sector utilizing state funding amidst rising living costs.

Leavenworth truly shines during the holiday season, when it becomes reminiscent of a classic German Christmas market, surrounded by festive choirs, carolers, food stall vendors, and delightful gingerbread house competitions. The tradition of lighting Christmas lights downtown on weekends has grown so popular that organizers decided to illuminate the streets from Thanksgiving until February.

“Every time I visit, I just feel this overwhelming joy and excitement,” remarked Alison Epsom from Sultan, who recently enjoyed a trip with her husband, Brian Jolly, and their 8-month-old daughter, Acacia. The couple shares a special connection to this enchanting town; their love story began nearly 20 years ago at an international dance festival, where Brian brought Alison, originally from England, to Leavenworth on one of their first dates.

Recalling that day, Jolly said, “I knew I only had one chance to win her heart.” During their drive through the mountains, Alison suggested a stop, leaping out into the snow without a coat to build her first snowman. “I had never seen so much snow,” Alison reminisced, describing the experience as magical.

Now, visiting Leavenworth has become an annual tradition for the family, with a ritual of selecting a new ornament for their tree each year at the Kris Kringl shop. The town is integral to their love story; Jolly famously proposed to Alison on a horse-drawn sleigh ride. This year, it was little Acacia’s moment to choose her first ornament. She reached for a charming white owl, which now adorns the family tree alongside a red and gold star, symbolizing their enduring connection to this festive town.